Hampstead Heath Walk: Kenwood House, the Ponds & Parliament Hill

This 4.3-mile circular walk captures the best of Hampstead Heath and Village. Swim in the ponds, visit Kenwood House, take in the views from Parliament Hill, and end at a traditional pub. Map and instructions included.

By: Mark Barnes | Last Updated: February 26, 2026

Hampstead Heath is a 320-hectare ancient parkland in north London. Wild and rugged, it is a mix of rough heathland, bobbly hills, woodlands, and natural swimming ponds – that has barely changed in centuries.

On its edge is Hampstead Village, a smart London neighbourhood with Victorian and modernist architecture and plenty of old-school pubs.

Paul and I have explored the neighbourhood many times and have designed a circular walking route that takes in the best sights.

The walk is 4.3 miles and very varied. It passes quirky independent shops, crosses open heathland to one of the finest free art collections in the country, stops at several bathing ponds, and climbs to one of the best viewpoints in London.

The walk is circular, starting and finishing at Hampstead tube station, and takes around two hours at a steady pace.

But this is not a walk to rush. Book a slot at the bathing ponds, stop for lunch at the Kenwood House café, and linger on Parliament Hilll and you can spend a whole day.

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hampstead heath viewpoint — Views from Parliament Hill

Hampstead Heath Walk Overview

Start / End: Hampstead Tube Station
Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 kilometres)
Walking Time: 2 hours (half day with stops)
Best For: Warm summer days and swimming in the ponds.

There are many paths that criss-cross Hampstead Heath. We have chosen our favourite circular route which captures the best sights in the park and the most interesting parts of Hampstead Village.

It passes Kenwood House (free to enter), the Hampstead bathing ponds, the views from Parliament Hill, the shops and restaurants of Hampstead Village, and several excellent pubs.

The walk is 4.3 miles long and, if you walked it quickly, would take about 2 hours. However, there are plenty of viewpoints, swimming spots, quirky streets, and great pubs along the route, so you could easily spend half or full day exploring.

In the summer months, we love swimming in the bathing ponds. If you plan to do the same, bring your swimming gear and book in advance (see below).

Unlike the flat, paved routes in most of our other self-guided walks in London, Hampstead Heath involves some hills and uneven paths that can be muddy after rain. We recommend wearing good walking shoes year-round.

Map: Hampstead Heath Walk

Below is a map of the walk. The main attractions are marked so you don’t miss any of the sights.

We recommend walking clockwise. If you have the map open on your phone as you walk, you can track your progress.

When to Do the Walk

The walk can be done any time of year, but summer is the best. The bathing ponds are at their most inviting, and the warm summer days are ideal for picnics.

Autumn is the most beautiful when the woodland between Kenwood House and the ponds turns gold and amber. In spring, the heath is dotted with colourful flowers and new growth.

If you plan to swim, book in advance. The Ladies’, Men’s, and Mixed Ponds are open all year but operate a timed booking system during the summer months (late-May to early September). Slots fill up quickly, particularly at weekends, so book in advance.

If you plan to explore Kenwood House, it does not open till 10 am.

Where to Eat and Drink

There are lots of excellent options for grabbing a bite, turning a lovely walk into a great day out.

Bring a picnic – On warm days, bring a picnic, or, as we often do, buy one from the deli on Flask Walk, just near the tube station.

Kenwood House Brew House Cafe – Kenwood House (run by English Heritage) has a cafe with wooden seats set amongst its walled garden. Perfect for a coffee break.

Hampstead Village Cafes – The High Street in Hampstead is lined with cafes and restaurants. Choose from Ottolenghi, The Oak & Poppy, and DIJöN, all of which are on the final stretch back to the tube station.

Freemasons Arms & The Flask – The Freemasons Arms is a smart pub with beer garden towards the end of the walk. But we usually opt to end the day with a pint at The Flask. A proper old-school London pub with a dark wooden bar, red leather seats, and a history dating back to 1700.

kenwood house hampstead heath — Kenwood House Gardens

Self-Guided Hampstead Heath Walking Route

Flask & Well Walk

Start by getting the underground to Hampstead Tube Station.

Exiting the station, turn left down Hampstead High Street and immediately left again on Flask Walk. This narrow alleyway has plenty of quirky, independent shops.

Peruse the second-hand bookstore, drop in on JM Pennifeather’s pen shop, or simply grab a coffee for a caffeine fix. There are a couple of delis here, so it’s a great place to stock up if you want to have a picnic in the park.

Continuing on, Flask Walk turns into Well Walk. Dotted with Grade II listed buildings from the nineteenth century the highlight is the Wells Tavern, an excellent neighbourhood pub where you’ll find locals spilling onto the street on sunny days.

At the end of Well Walk cross over the road and into Hampstead Heath.

Hampstead Heath

This ancient heath spans 320 hectares and is a wild park of woodland, meadows, ponds, and gardens. There are numerous paths crisscrossing the heath, but we have picked our favourite route which captures all the highlights.

On entering the park turn left and follow the route on our Hampstead Heath walking map above. It passes the pretty Vale of Heath Pond, and a strange housing community tucked into the park, before bending right and winding up towards Kenwood House.

This section can be muddy, so after rain, be sure to wear sturdy walking shoes or boots.

hampstead heath london walk — Hampstead Heath

Hampstead Heath Sculptures

As you approach Kenwood house there are two sculptures to admire.

Henry Moore’s semi-abstract monumental bronze ‘Two Piece Reclining Figure No.5’ sits in the corner of a large field. The upright piece represents the head and the torso, while the lower piece the legs. Moore’s reclining figures are always female because he associated women with life, survival, fecundity, and endurance.

Barbara Hepworth’s abstract sculpture ‘Monolith Empyrean’ is 9 feet high and made of blue Corrib stone. As Hepworth stated, ‘the monolith is a monument to those who seek their freedom in the upper air even though it involves fire and falling earthwards.’

barbara hepworth's monolith empyrean sculpture — Monolith Empyrean

two peice reclining figure no.5 by Henry Moore — Monolith Empyrean

Kenwood House

Kenwood House is one of the great free attractions in London and one of the most rewarding stops on the walk. Set on the northern edge of Hampstead Heath with sweeping views south over the landscaped grounds, it is a beautifully preserved 18th-century country house.

The house was remodelled in the 1760s by the architect Robert Adam for William Murray, the 1st Earl of Mansfield, one of the most influential legal figures in British history. Murray was a pioneering judge whose rulings helped establish the principle that slavery was unsupportable under English law.

Inside, the rooms are lavishly decorated. Don’t miss the library – a long, elegant room in pale blue and cream – widely considered one of the most beautiful rooms in England.

The walls are covered in an outstanding art collection bequeathed to the nation by Edward Guinness, 1st Earl of Iveagh, in 1927. Highlights include a late Rembrandt self-portrait, works by Vermeer, Gainsborough, and Reynolds, and a number of significant Dutch and Flemish masters. Entry is completely free.

Outside, the 112 acres of parkland include an ornamental lake, a bridge, and formal gardens that blend into the wilder heathland beyond. The Brew House Café in the converted stable block serves good coffee and light lunches.

In summer, the lawns in front of the house host open-air classical concerts that have been running since the 1950s — worth checking in advance if you’re visiting between June and August.

Before heading back into Hampstead Heath, take the small detour to Prospect Hill for views over the city.

Lady’s Bathing Pond

Now follow the map above heading south. The path goes over a bridge, through the woods, exits Kenwood House’s landscaped grounds through a metal gate, and re-enters the wild heathland.

As the path meanders through the grassy meadows, it passes two natural bathing ponds, one for men, one for women, which are perfect for a dip on a warm day.

First up is the Kenwood Ladies’ Bathing Pond, one of the most quietly magical spots in London. Tucked away in a secluded hollow surrounded by trees, it is genuinely hidden from walkers passing by.

The pond is open only to women and girls. Paul and I have obviously never been, but by all reports, even on busy summer days, the atmosphere is calm, unhurried, and has a relaxed, private feel.

The pond is open year-round, but a booking system operates during the summer months (mid-May to early September). There are changing facilities, toilets, showers, and lifeguards on duty, but no lockers to leave valuables.

Walking in Hampstead Heath — Mark walking in Hampstead Heath

Men’s Bathing Pond

Next up is the Highgate Men’s Bathing Pond. The Highgate Men’s Bathing Pond has a completely different character to the Ladies’ Pond just up the path.

Where the Ladies’ Pond feels tucked away and secluded, the Men’s Pond is more open — a wider stretch of water with a grassy bank alongside it that has been a gathering place for generations of Londoners.

It has a devoted year-round following, including a hardy group of regulars, who even in January can be seen emerging from near-freezing water.

Like the Ladies’ Pond, the water is natural and unheated, lifeguards are on duty during opening hours, and a small entry fee applies.

A booking system operates in the summer. There are changing facilities, toilets, and showers, but no lockers, so leave valuables at home or keep them with a companion on the bank.

There is a large, open grassy bank just next to the pond entrance. In summer, its very popular with London’s gay community, and a great place to chill out and do some people-watching.

mixed bathing pond hampstead heath — Mixed Bathing Pond

hampstead head mens bathing pond — Mixed Bathing Pond

Parliament Hill

After the men’s bathing pond, bear west and start the steady 10-minute climb up Parliament Hill.

At 98 metres, it is the highest accessible point on Hampstead Heath, and the view from the summit is one of the best in London — a wide, unobstructed panorama stretching south across the entire city skyline.

On a clear day, you can pick out St Paul’s Cathedral, the Shard, Canary Wharf, the BT Tower, and the London Eye.

At the summit there are a handful of benches making it an ideal spot for a rest and a picnic, and on sunny weekends the hilltop has a relaxed, sociable atmosphere with kite flyers, dog walkers, and families spread across the grass.

The origin of the name is disputed. The most popular legend links it to the Gunpowder Plot of 1605 — the story goes that Guy Fawkes and his co-conspirators planned to watch the destruction of the Houses of Parliament from this vantage point.

Historians are sceptical, but the name has stuck for over 400 years.

hampstead heath viewpoint parliament hill — Views over the City from Parliament Hill

Mixed Bathing Ponds

Now head down the hill towards the Mixed Bathing Pond. This is the most family-friendly of the three ponds on the heath. Open to everyone, it has a more sociable atmosphere than the single-sex ponds and is a popular spot for families with children on warm summer days.

It operates the same as the other ponds, so on summer days (Mid-May to early September), book in advance.

If you want to swim in a less natural environment with more facilities, it’s only a short detour to the kid-friendly heated outdoor lido at Parliament Hill Fields.

Views across ponds in Hampstead Heath — Houses overlooking Hampstead Heath ponds

Devonshire Hill

Continue to follow the route on the map above. It passes another large pond backed by grand houses and then exits Hampstead Heath. Before heading back towards Hampstead Village, there are a couple of other sights to consider.

2 Willow Road is an innovative and influential Modernist home run by the National Trust. If you are a member or interested in architecture, then drop in.

A short detour down Keats Grove and you’ll find Keats House. This was John Keats’ home from 1818 to 1820 where he wrote the ‘Ode to a Nightingale’. The Regency Villa tells his life story and often contains other related exhibitions.

Now head up Devonshire Hill towards Hampstead High Street. Along the way, you’ll pass the Freemasons Arms, a popular spot to stop with a large beer garden.

Hampstead High Street

At the top of Devonshire Hill, turn right onto Hampstead High Street.

Hampstead is one of London’s most affluent and characterful villages, and the High Street and surrounding streets reflect that — independent boutiques, good restaurants, and some of the most attractive Georgian and Victorian streetscapes in north London.

It’s well worth taking ten minutes to wander around before heading back to the tube.

The streets around Church Row and Holly Walk are particularly pretty — Church Row is widely regarded as one of the finest Georgian streets in London, a long terrace of early 18th-century townhouses leading down to St John’s Church where the painter John Constable is buried.

There are plenty of places to grab a drink or a meal.

For coffee, Ginger & White on Perrin’s Court is one of the best independent cafés in north London. For a sit-down meal, the High Street has a good range of options to suit most tastes and budgets.

We usually head to The Flask for a pint. This proper old London pub, dating back to 1700, has a dark wooden bar, red leather seats, and a loyal local following.

The walk ends back at Hampstead Tube Station.

For similar walks, check out our favourite self-guided walks in London series. If you fancy a day trip into the countryside, then read our best country walks near London.