The Aït Bouguemez valley is an excellent spot to hike through indigenous Berber villages and their stunning surroundings. But with no marked paths, finding your way can be difficult. Here are our instructions for two great hikes.
By: Mark Barnes | Last Updated: | Comments & Questions
The Aït Bouguemez valley, enclosed by the towering desolate High Atlas mountains, is a beautiful patchwork of fields stretched across the banks of a river. Dotted around the fields and on low lying slopes of the mountains, Berber villages continue a traditional way of life.
Shepherds and goatherders usher their flocks from one green patch to the next. Women hurry across fields, scything crops and carrying the day’s work on their backs. In the villages, the scent of Berber tagines – a recipe unchanged for centuries – wafts from clay ovens.
Exploring the valley floor on foot is the best way to see this incredible scenery. But more importantly, hiking in Aït Bouguemez is a fascinating insight into a completely different way of life. Unfortunately, there are many opportunities to get lost: unsigned paths criss-cross the valley floor and maps are little more than a few wiggles on a sheet of paper.
On our 10-day Morocco Itinerary we spent a few days exploring Aït Bouguemez to develop a couple of tailor-made hikes which can easily be done without a guide. The first explores traditional villages along the lower Ait Bouguemez valley. The second hikes through the upper valley and over a ridge with spectacular views into the main town of Tabant.
Together they cover the best this area has to offer.
WALK 1
HIKING THE VILLAGES OF THE LOWER AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY
SUMMARY
A circular half-day hike exploring the villages and fields in the lower valley
DISTANCE
12km round trip
TIME
3-4 hours depending on stops
ELEVATION
Almost none unless you head up Sidi Moussa Marabout
DIFFICULTY
Easy
LOWER VALLEY HIKE
Our lower valley hike is an easy 12 km circular stroll that heads down on side of the valley before crossing over and returning on the other side. The scenery is magnificent, especially in the late afternoon when the golden Moroccan light bounces off the valley walls, illuminating the swaying grass and red rock walls. But the highlight is exploring the many villages and the Berber way of life.
Walking through the valley kids play in the irrigation channels; families sit on street corners swapping stories, grandparents peer out of darkened windows and woman work in the fields. But this traditional way of life, unchanged for centuries, is suddenly heading into modernity.
In the larger villages, a shiny new box sits on a wall as you enter. This recently arrived bundle of joy is responsible for supplying a new luxury: electricity. Plumbed running water is following close behind. Both are bringing a much-improved quality of life.
But smaller villages are not yet connected. It was a hot topic in recent elections. Elections for which you can still see the 21 parties different candidate names and the votes they received written on the walls of a large house in each village.
The main villages also have a school. In a place where homes are built from the earth, the dwellings and surrounding environment blend into one monochrome pallet. But, the schools are different. Styled in multiple bright colours; their vibrancy is a contrast to the earthen hue of the villages.
This delightful hike is not just a journey through great scenery, but a glimpse at Berber life, both old and new.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR HIKING THE VILLAGES OF THE LOWER VALLEY
This 12km circular half-day hike begins just east of Timit on the road directly south of the Sidi Moussa Marabout – as marked on our map below.
Take the wide gravel track that heads into the fields and over a bridge. Just after the bridge turn right and follow the path as it bends left, arcing into the village of Aguerd n’Ouzrou (number 1 on map). Exiting the village turn slightly right and follow the path that runs along an irrigation channel, keeping the edge of the fields on your right and the rising slopes on your left.
About 20 to 25 minutes after leaving, the path crosses the irrigation channel before quickly crossing back again and bending left (2). Continue to keep the irrigation channel on your right as you follow the wide path through another village and past the mound of Aït Ziri rising out of the fields.
After just over an hour you’ll pass an even higher conical hill where Agadir (Castle) of Sidi Chems perches above the village of Idoukaln. After the hill, continue next to the irrigation channel with the fields on your left and – keeping an eye on your position on our map – turn right when you come to a wide track that cuts across the fields (5). This track passes through the village of Takhida, over a bridge and up to the road on the other side.
Now you can turn right and follow the road back to your starting point, but it’s worth making two detours. Firstly, turn left, head into Agouti, and visit Association Ighrem (6). Secondly as you approach Timit (7), instead of following the road, take the lower path signed to Valley Hereuse Cooperative, and explore the village backstreets before re-joining the road and returning to where you began.
The entire walk takes 3 hours but you may want to spend longer exploring the villages and the fields, heading into Association Ighrem in Agouti or Valley Hereuse Cooperative in Timit. Walking up the conical hill to the views from Sidi Moussa Marabout will also add extra time
WALK 2
HIKING THE UPPER AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY & TABANT
SUMMARY
A circular half-day hike exploring the upper valley, before crossing a ridge into Tabant village
DISTANCE
11.5km round trip
TIME
3-4 hours depending on stops
ELEVATION
250m of ascent and descent
DIFFICULTY
Medium
PESKY IRRIGATION CHANNELS AND SUPERB VISTAS
Lying face down in an irrigation ditch is not the way I’d recommend starting this walk, but that’s the way I did it. It’s not that I wasn’t regularly warned by my perennial navigator, but the irrigation system in the valley is very effective. So effective that the long, prosperous wheat completely hides the deep channels lurking underneath.
After picking myself out of the ditch and asking the ladies working the fields (still laughing at me) to point us in the right direction, we proceeded up a steep gravel path through a forested section of the surrounding hills. It’s not particularly difficult but it can be a bit slippery, so some decent shoes would be a good idea.
Once over the top however, the views are amazing. The whole valley of red rock opens up with the tiny town of Tabant nestled among the green of the valley floor. A colourful display of where life exists in this otherwise barren place. It’s also an ideal spot to stop for lunch.
Heading back into Tabant, the trail passes the local school. With 27% of the Moroccan population under 15, it’s not surprising to find the edge of town inundated with school kids. Walking along the main road into town we were of great interest to many mini-Moroccans who took the opportunity to grab us for a chat.
Some were a bit upset when they realised we didn’t speak much French, but nonetheless, most took great pleasure in simply yelling out “ca va.”
MORE / BEST THINGS TO DO IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE UPPER VALLEY AÏT BOUGUEMEZ HIKE
This 11.5km half-day circular hike begins at the centre of the Y-shaped valley where the roads from Agouti, Tabant and Ifrane all meet (as marked on the map). Take the road heading north-east (towards Ifrane). It passes through Imelghas village then turns right (crossing the fields) and then right again (1) into the village of Ikhefnighir. Perhaps checkout the cooperative clearly sign-posted from the road.
Keep following the road exiting Ikhefnighir, bending right before completing a near semi-circular loop as you pass through the village of Tadghouit (3). After the main set of houses ends, there is a short section with no houses before you come to two houses either side of the road. Just after them turn right (4) and find a way across the fields heading for the bridge marked on the map. The fields are crisscrossed with paths and irrigation channels so there are many ways to go. Be careful with your footwork as the channels can be difficult to spot.
Cross the bridge and turning left, follow the bank of the river, until a small ravine of boulders crosses your path. Make your way clockwise around the boulders (5) and begin to ascend the slope on your right. The path up the slope can be a little difficult to see at first as it is faint, but search around and you will find it. This faint loose gravel track now heads up to the summit of the ridge (6), zig-zagging up quite a steep section before slowly shallowing out. This is the hardest part of the walk with 250m of ascent and it takes about 20 minutes.
At the summit the trail turns right and, descending obliquely, joins a gravel track running below it. Follow this down into the valley, past a school and mountaineering guide centre before turning right at the main road (8). This road now takes you through Tabant, past shops, cafes and the souk before returning you to where you started.
The entire walk takes 3 hours and 30 minutes but you may want to spend another hour exploring the villages, the fields and the cafes and souk (Sunday) in Tabant.
AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY MAP
Here is our map of things to do in the Aït Bouguemez valley. It shows the hikes we took, places to stay, views to capture and a few other bits and pieces.
How to use our maps // Click on the top right corner to open in the Google Maps app. Click on the star to save to your Google account.
BEST TIME TO HIKE IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY
The valley is at its most beautiful in spring when flowers line the valley floor and the crops are at their most green. The problem is in early spring snow can be slow to melt and high rainfall can wash away the rock that supports the roads making them impassable.
We suggest you head here from early-April to late May, after which the temperatures start to rise, the wheat and barley turn brown and the snow leaves the tops of the mountains making the whole scene less picturesque.
After the summer temperatures drop. Mid-September to mid-October can also be a good time to visit although the colours are not as vibrant as in spring.
While not essential it is also worth avoiding Ramadan if you can. Morocco is a very religious country and a month of fasting means guides are not keen to take long hikes and local cafes and cooperatives are often closed. For 2020 Ramadan will be 23 April to 23 May and for 2021 it will be 12 April to 11 May.
Its best to do the upper valley walk and the climb over the ridge in the morning when it Is cooler. The lower valley walk is magnificent in the late afternoon when the sun lights up the rusty-coloured craggy rocks that overhang the valley floor.
TRAIL CONDITIONS FOR HIKING IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY
The trail around the lower valley is flat and very easy to follow. You could walk it in any pair of shoes in which you would be comfortable for three hours.
The first section of the upper valley trail is along an easy to follow trail but, after you turn right towards the bridge, be careful not to trip or slip into the irrigation channels that litter the fields. They can be hard to spot when the grass is long.
After the bridge, the climb up the ridge takes only 15 to 20 minutes but it’s quite a slog. The faint path is steep and covered in loose gravel so make sure you have a decent grip on you trainers / walking boots. The drop back down is on slightly larger rocks so again you need to be careful with your footing.
Nevertheless, while the upper valley trail is more challenging than the lower valley, both hikes should be very achievable to anyone with an average level of fitness.
MORE / BEST THINGS TO DO IN OUARZAZATE
TIPS FOR HIKING IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY
1 / Allow at least 3 hours for the lower valley hike and 3 hours 30 minutes for the upper valley hike. But ideally, give yourself an extra hour to potter in and out of the villages and fields, survey Berber life and pop into a cooperative or cafe.
2 / Before you start the hike, download google offline custom maps for the area and save our map by clicking on the star. Maps.Me offline Morocco South map is also an excellent second resource for finding your way around.
3 / If you get lost try asking one of the locals for advice. You might find someone with a bit of French, but if not, a town name and some pointing usually does the trick.
4 / Wear shoes with a decent grip for the upper valley hike and beware the irrigation channels in the fields.
5 / Morocco can be hot and there is not much shade on either walk. Try and walk early in the day or late in the afternoon. Wear a hat and sun tan lotion and take plenty of water.
6 / Many of the villages have basic shops offering water, biscuits, bread and a few other supplies. There is also a few cafes in Tabant and one in Agouti (but beware they will be shut during Ramadan).
7 / For more information, including how to get here, read our complete guide on things to the Aït Bouguemez valley.
WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT ELSE TO DO
The Ait Bouguemez valley is a fantastic alternative to the hustle and bustle of Fez or Marrakesh. There are a lot of great things to do in the valley, particularly around understanding the traditional culture of the Berber villages. For more information about what else you can get up to in Ait Bouguemez including our recommendations on where to say, see this post.
MORE READING FOR MOROCCO
Although only a short flight from Europe, Morocco is a different world. Explore medieval medinas, bustling souks, and stunning scenery with more of our Morocco guides.
MOROCCO CITIES
How to experience the magic of Jemaa el Fna
Our self-guided walking tour of the Fez Medina
Best things to do in Marrakech
MOROCCO INSPIRATION
Exploring the high Atlas Mountains
Visiting the Valley of the Roses
MOROCCO TRAVEL TIPS
Useful tips for driving in Morocco
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Mark Barnes
Mark is an accomplished travel writer, specializing in crafting road trips, outdoor adventures, and global hiking itineraries.
His work has been recognized by Lonely Planet, and he has received several awards for his travel writing, including Blogger of the Year at the Travel Media Awards in London.
Both the hikes look incredible but my clear choice would be to hike the lower valley, the sheer green fields and the charming villages look so amazing! 12-km hike sounds doable for me, even though I’m not in the best physical state for long hikes. Did you say the entire 12 km walk takes only 3 hours? I can totally do this!
The lower valley hike is a good choice, it was great fun going from village to village.
The views look amazing and it sure looks like the village is a great place to relax. I have never hiked however would love to. I would probably have to start with an easier one. I love the fact it still seems untouched. Also never realised they speak French
Thanks, Neha. The villages in the valley are beautiful, but if you’ve never hiked before you should have a look at some of our Dolomites content. The hiking there is great for first-timers.
I love the way you describe your hikes, you paint a wonderful picture and the photographs are incredible. The lower valley hike sounds perfect. I love to see local life and passing by the villages sounds an amazing experience.
Hi Jenni, We went in the late afternoon and the light was perfect. A great way to end the day. Thanks for your comment.
OMG the hike looks just amazing! I like it because it’s not just rocks but also some little culture things and locals, which were my favorite to photograph and meet while in Morocco. I regret I didn’t go hiking.
Hi Anita, We were pleasantly surprised how great the hiking was in Morocco. We hiked at Dades, Todgha, Ait Bouguemez and Ouirgane and each time there was great scenery and fascinating cultural insights. Highly recommend if you head back.
Wow!! Is it really that picturesque??? I completely love it. I never knew Morrocco is so damn beautiful and so green. I really liked the view from the lower valley hike it really looks like somewhere I would definitely go, sit and the view of the long grass. And as a hiking lover myself, I am keeping this village as a bookmark for my next upcoming trip to Morroco.
Hi Daniel, If you are a keen hiker then Morocco is an excellent destination. Great scenery and fascinating cultural insights into the changing life of the Berbers. Enjoy your trip. P.S. We will have more content out in the coming weeks, so hope you get a chance to read before you go.
The last time I was in Morocco was a number of years ago, and I loved it, but I never made it to the Aït Bouguemez Valley. Hopefully I’ll get back sometime soon, and then I can make sure I make this happen.
Thanks, Christopher, it’s a great part of Morocco. Hope you make it back someday.
Those are pretty interesting. I love these hikes because you can see real life in the villages. Which is always interesting. When I travel, I look for something different from my home and these are indeed the places worth going in Morocco.
Aït Bouguemez is definitely a little bit different. It was great to get out and explore local life in the valley a little. Thanks for stopping by Alexander.
When I went to Marrakech, I did a day trip to the Berber villages of Imlil and Tamatert. The hike we did was similarly unmarked and would’ve been difficult to figure out without the help of a guide. I’m surprised by how different the scenery is here in Aït Bouguemez valley despite not really being that far away from Imlil. Clearly it’s worth going on multiple hikes in the Berber villages outside of Marrakech for anyone who has the time. Thanks for sharing, your pics are stunning and make me miss Morocco a lot!
Thanks a lot, Kevin. Actually, the change in scenery was one of the things that surprised me about Morocco as well. Driving only a short distance can deliver some dramatically different scenery.
Hello, thanks for this information about our beautiful country and dear happy valley, where i raised and born, the hikes you mentioned ,it’s what we suggest exactly to explore our irea us a local and mountain guide.
Please get in touch with us, next time we have a lot to offer to our customers.
Glad you approve as an expert in the area!
next time you are around, please come visit us!
@campusvivante
@cafevivante
thanks for the wonderful information you provide for guests!
Thank you so much for this wonderful info about the Ait Bouguemez Valley and hiking. I noticed that you wrote, “On our 10-day Morocco Itinerary we spent a few days exploring Aït Bouguemez to develop a couple of tailor-made hikes which can easily be done without a guide.” However, your 10-day Morocco Itinerary doesn’t seem to include the Ait Bouguemez Valley. Did you perhaps visit that area in addition to your 10-day trip route? Can you tell me the route that you took to drive to Ait Bouguemez Valley ? I’d be grateful for your help.
Hi Carol,
Well spotted! We have been to Morocco twice. First time we completed the 10 day itinerary detailed on the post, the second time we did a loop of the Atlas mountains passing through Ait Bouguemez. This it the route we took.
Starting in Marrakech (3 nights) we headed to Ouirgane (1 night) then crossed the mountains via Telouet & Ait Ben Haddou to Ourazazate (1 night). Then we took the N10 onto Dades (1 night) and then onto Tinghir (1night). After hiking the Todra Grorge in the morning we headed north on the N12 to Imilchil (1 night).
Next day we continued north on the N12, before turning left through Afert and Taghzout to Tagelft (its a paved road but the road is a bit decrepit through some of the villages). At Tagelft we joined the R306 and then the R304 to Azilal. At Azilal we turned left to Ait M’Hamed, then right on R302 (a beautiful but narrow road clinging to the valley walls) through Tamernout. At the massive hairpin bend near Agouti, leave the R302 and keep straight ahead to Ait Bouguemez.
We completed the Imilchil to Ait Bouguemez drive in one day – if memory serves me correctly it took 5 to 6 hours – and we did it all in a normal 2WD car. It was bumpy in the villages and at the odd spot where a stream had cut up the road, but at no point did I think we would not make it.
After spending 3 nights in Ait Bouguemez, we headed west on the R302 and then the R210 to Marrakech. This road was better than the one through Afert. There are lots of great unvisited villages on route and if you hit market day. its very atmospheric but driving through them can be a bit slow. It took us 4 to 5hours.
Its been four years since we completed this trip but I would assume, if anything, the roads are better. Obviously, don’t try to go in winter as the roads might be closed.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you need any more info.
Thanks Mark.