Hiking In The Aït Bouguemez Valley, Morocco

The Aït Bouguemez Valley is an excellent spot to hike through indigenous Berber villages and their stunning surroundings. But with no marked paths, finding your way can be difficult. Here are our instructions for two great hikes.

The Aït Bouguemez valley, enclosed by the towering desolate High Atlas mountains, is a beautiful patchwork of fields stretched across the banks of a river.

Dotted around the fields and on low-lying slopes of the mountains, Berber villages continue to follow a traditional way of life.

Shepherds and goatherders usher their flocks from one green patch to the next. Women hurry across fields, scything crops and carrying the day’s work on their backs.

Exploring the valley floor on foot is the best way to see this incredible scenery.

But more importantly, hiking in Aït Bouguemez is a fascinating insight into a completely different way of life.

Unfortunately, there are many opportunities to get lost: unsigned paths crisscross the valley floor, and maps are little more than a few wiggles on a sheet of paper.

On our 10-day Morocco Itinerary, we spent a few days exploring Aït Bouguemez to develop a couple of tailor-made hikes which can easily be done without a guide.

Together, they cover the best this area has to offer.

The first explores traditional villages along the lower Ait Bouguemez valley. The second hike through the upper valley and over a ridge with spectacular views into the main town of Tabant.

AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY MAP

This map covers all the best things to do in the Aït Bouguemez valley. It shows our hikes, places to stay, views to capture and a few other bits and pieces.

HIKE 1: LOWER AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY

A circular half-day hike exploring the villages and fields in the Lower Valley

Distance – 12km round trip | Time – 3-4 hours | Elevation – Almost none unless you head up Sidi Moussa Marabout | Difficulty – Easy

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Our Lower Valley hike is an easy 12-kilometre circular stroll that heads down one side of the valley before crossing over and returning on the other side.

The scenery is magnificent, especially in the late afternoon, with light bouncing off the valley walls, illuminating the swaying grass and red rock walls.

But the highlight is exploring the many Berber villages where the traditional way of life is suddenly heading into modernity.

In the larger villages, electricity had just arrived, and running water was being installed in several huts.

Schools decorated in bright colours are a vibrant contrast to the earthy hues of the other huts in the village.

HIKE INSTRUCTIONS

The hike begins just east of Timit on the road directly south of the Sidi Moussa Marabout. We have marked the location on the map above.

Take the wide gravel track that heads into the fields and over a bridge. Just after the bridge turn right and follow the path as it bends left, arcing into the village of Aguerd n’Ouzrou (number 1 on map).

Exiting the village turn slightly right and follow the path that runs along an irrigation channel, keeping the edge of the fields on your right and the rising slopes on your left.

About 20 to 25 minutes after leaving, the path crosses the irrigation channel before quickly crossing back again and bending left (2).

Continue to keep the irrigation channel on your right as you follow the wide path through another village and past the mound of Aït Ziri rising out of the fields.

After just over an hour you’ll pass an even higher conical hill where Agadir (Castle) of Sidi Chems perches above the village of Idoukaln.

After the hill, continue next to the irrigation channel with the fields on your left and – keeping an eye on your position on our map – turn right when you come to a wide track that cuts across the fields (5).

This track passes through the village of Takhida, over a bridge and up to the road on the other side.

Now you can turn right and follow the road back to your starting point, but it’s worth making two detours.

Firstly, turn left, head into Agouti, and visit Association Ighrem (6).

Secondly, as you approach Timit (7), instead of following the road, take the lower path signed to Valley Hereuse Cooperative, and explore the village backstreets before re-joining the road and returning to where you began.

HIKE 2: UPPER VALLEY & TABANT

A circular half-day hike exploring the upper valley, before crossing a ridge into Tabant village

Distance – 11.5 km round trip | Time – 3-4 hours | Elevation – 250m of ascent and descent | Difficulty – Medium

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This hike starts with a steep gravel path through a forested section of the surrounding hills. It’s not particularly difficult but it can be a bit slippery, so some decent shoes would be a good idea.

Once over the top, the views are amazing.

The whole valley of red rock opens up with the tiny town of Tabant nestled among the green of the valley floor.

A colourful display of where life exists in this otherwise barren place. It’s also an ideal spot to stop for lunch.

Heading back into Tabant, the trail passes the local school. With 27% of the Moroccan population under 15, it’s not surprising to find the edge of town inundated with school kids.

Walking along the main road into town, we were of great interest to many students who took the opportunity to grab us for a chat.

Encountering locals is one of the most rewarding experiences in the Aït Bouguemez Valley.

HIKE INSTRUCTIONS

This 11.5km half-day circular hike begins at the centre of the Y-shaped valley where the roads from Agouti, Tabant and Ifrane all meet (as marked on the map).

Take the road heading north-east (towards Ifrane).

It passes through Imelghas village, then turns right (crossing the fields) and right again (1) into the village of Ikhefnighir. Perhaps check out the cooperative, clearly sign-posted from the road if you have time.

Keep following the road exiting Ikhefnighir, bending right before completing a near semi-circular loop as you pass through the village of Tadghouit (3).

After the main set of houses ends, there is a short section with no houses before you come to two houses either side of the road.

Just after them turn right (4) and find a way across the fields heading for the bridge marked on the map. The fields are crisscrossed with paths and irrigation channels so there are many ways to go.

Be careful with your footwork as the channels can be difficult to spot.

Cross the bridge and turning left, follow the bank of the river, until a small ravine of boulders crosses your path.

Make your way clockwise around the boulders (5) and begin to ascend the slope on your right. The path up the slope can be a little difficult to see at first as it is faint, but search around and you will find it.

This faint, loose gravel track now heads up to the summit of the ridge (6), zig-zagging up quite a steep section before slowly shallowing out.

This is the hardest part of the walk with 250m of ascent and it takes about 20 minutes.

At the summit the trail turns right and, descending obliquely, joins a gravel track running below it.

Follow this down into the valley, past a school and mountaineering guide centre before turning right at the main road (8).

This road now takes you through Tabant, past shops, cafes and the souk before returning you to where you started.

The entire walk takes 3 hours and 30 minutes but you may want to spend another hour exploring the villages, the fields and the cafes and souk (Sunday) in Tabant.

BEST TIME TO HIKE IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY

The valley is at its most beautiful in spring when flowers line the valley floor and the crops are at their most green.

However, in early spring, snow can be slow to melt, and high rainfall can wash away the rock that supports the roads, making them impassable.

We suggest Ait Bouguemez from early April to late May.

Later in the year, the temperatures start to rise, the wheat and barley turn brown, and the snow leaves the tops of the mountains, making the whole scene less picturesque.

After the summer temperatures drop, mid-September to mid-October can also be a good time to visit, although the colours are not as vibrant as in spring.

While not essential, it is also worth avoiding Ramadan if you can. Morocco is a very religious country and a month of fasting means guides are not keen to take long hikes, and local cafes and cooperatives are often closed.

For 2025, Ramadan will be from Friday, 28 February until Sunda,y 30 March 2025

TRAIL CONDITIONS FOR HIKING IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY

The trail around the lower valley is flat and very easy to follow. You could walk it in any pair of shoes in which you would be comfortable for three hours.

The first section of the upper valley trail is along an easy to follow trail but, after you turn right towards the bridge, be careful not to trip or slip into the irrigation channels that litter the fields.

They can be hard to spot when the grass is long.

After the bridge, the climb up the ridge takes only 15 to 20 minutes but it’s quite a slog.

The faint path is steep and covered in loose gravel, so make sure you have a decent grip on your trainers/walking boots.

The drop back down is on slightly larger rocks so again you need to be careful with your footing.

TIPS FOR HIKING IN AÏT BOUGUEMEZ VALLEY

1 / Allow at least 3 hours for the lower valley hike and 3 hours 30 minutes for the upper valley hike. But ideally, give yourself an extra hour to potter in and out of the villages and fields, survey Berber life and pop into a cooperative or cafe.

2 / Before you start the hike, download google offline custom maps for the area and save our map by clicking on the star. Maps.Me offline Morocco South map is also an excellent second resource for finding your way around.

3 / If you get lost try asking one of the locals for advice. You might find someone with a bit of French, but if not, a town name and some pointing usually does the trick.

4 / Wear shoes with a decent grip for the upper valley hike and beware the irrigation channels in the fields.

5 / Morocco can be hot and there is not much shade on either walk. Try and walk early in the day or late in the afternoon. Wear a hat and sun tan lotion and take plenty of water.

6 / Many of the villages have basic shops offering water, biscuits, bread and a few other supplies. There is also a few cafes in Tabant and one in Agouti (but beware they will be shut during Ramadan).

7 / For more information, including how to get here, read our complete guide on things to the Aït Bouguemez valley.

WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT ELSE TO DO

The Ait Bouguemez valley is a fantastic alternative to the hustle and bustle of Fez or Marrakesh.

There are a lot of great things to do in the valley, particularly around understanding the traditional culture of the Berber villages.

For more information about what else you can get up to in Ait Bouguemez, including our recommendations on where to stay, see this post.

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