The Skeleton Coast in Namibia conjures up shipwrecks in foggy coves and dunes crashing into the sea. But it was life at the margins that caught our imagination while driving the Skeleton Coast.
LAST UPDATE: 21 Nov 2023
Anywhere We Roam is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn a small affiliate commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support - Paul & Mark.
Trapped between the Atlantic Ocean and the central plains, the Skeleton Coast in Namibia is one of the driest places on earth. Yet the cold currents propelled on-shore from the Atlantic form a dense fog that covers the coast for over 200 days a year. It’s this fog that has confused captains and wrecked ships.
The name Skeleton Coast comes from the whale and seal bones that litter the beaches. But human bones have also been etched into the land, as stranded sailors struggled to survive in this challenging environment.
Many independent travellers skip driving the Skeleton Coast and head inland to Brandberg and Twyfelfontein. But we decided to explore a truly remote outpost of the world and see if it lived up to expectations.
Here’s what to see exploring the Skeleton Coast, Namibia.
WHERE IS THE SKELETON COAST?
The Skeleton Coast stretches 500 kilometres on the northern part of the Atlantic Coast in Namibia from Swakopmund to the Swakop River near the Angola border.
How to use this map / Click on the top left of the map to display the list of locations, then click on the locations to display further information. Click on the top right corner of the map to open a larger version in a new tab or the star to save to your Google Maps. Â
WHAT TO DO ON THE SKELETON COAST, NAMIBIA
1 – SKELETON COAST SHIPWRECKS
The thick fog that often envelops this coast has claimed many ships. Over the centuries thousands have been stranded on the rocks and sandbars that stretch out into the sea and many sailors have met a watery grave.
Just south of Henitesbaai you’ll find the Zeila, a boat sold for scrap metal that came detached from its towing line in 2008 and ran ashore.
South of the Ugab Gate is another Skeleton Coast shipwreck: the Winston. It’s a long bouncy side road to get there and almost all of it has washed away. North of the gate and just off the main road are the remains of the South West Seal, a 90-tonne South African fishing vessel that caught fire in 1976.
One of the best Skeleton Coast wrecks is not a ship at all but an oil rig. In the late ’60s and 70’s Ben du Preez and Jack Scott came looking for oil. Digging down to almost 1,700 metres, they found nothing, leaving a hunk of metal in the middle of the Skeleton desert.
2 – CAPE CROSS SEAL COLONY
The thousands of seals at the Cape Cross Seal Colony produce an enormous stench and a cacophony of sound as they make their way to and from the sea to feed on hake, mackerel and lantern fish.
They also fight a lot. In October, males mark out territory to establish breeding colonies. It’s a brutal time, and in the battles to secure their land and protect their females from other intruders, they may lose half their body weight.
In November and December, the pups are born and the colony swells to around 200,000 becoming the largest cape fur seal breeding colony in the world. Within 6 days of giving birth, females are ready to start it all again and begin mating. The pups are born the following November and December.
The car park at the Cape Cross Seal Colony is surrounded by seals. A 200 metre walkway takes you over their colony. It is a remarkable sight. Seals headbutt each other and bicker for position, the noise is intense and the smell extreme.
3 – THE MARCHING DUNES OF THE SKELETON COAST
In the southern section of the Skeleton Coast Park, the scenery is stark and desolate. Wide expanses of flat grey gravel reach to the horizon where it shimmers and distorts from the heat of the earth. It’s impressive in its own inhospitable, bleak way.
It’s a remarkable thing to witness such an stark environment. Getting out of the car and exploring a little on foot, it’s incredible to find insects, lizards and rodents surviving on the moisture of the sea fog.
It’s not beautiful scenery, but thoroughly interesting.
For golden sand dunes that meet the Atlantic sea, head to Sandwich Harbour near Walvis Bay.
4 – LIFE DEFYING THE ODDS IN DRY RIVER BEDS
There s almost no rain on the Skeleton Coast. The cool air from the sea and lack of mountains in the area stop clouds from forming, making it one of the driest places on earth.
With a lack of water, life out here is tough. But, river beds, dry for most of the year, form tiny natural pools as underground water seeps to the surface. These waterholes bring life.
The Hoanib River is a great place to stop on a Skeleton Coast road trip where you’ll find a pool with Egyptian Geese, Moorhens, and other small waders. Further north, explore the wide delta of the Uniab River, an area with a number of reed-fringed pools. Quietly exploring on foot, we saw two flamingos and an ostrich taking a drink, defying the odds in this harsh environment.
Searching the dunes, more signs of life appear. Beetles scurry over the gravel, rodents pop their heads above the surface and birds of prey swirl overhead. A jackal suspiciously roams around while his mate searches the coast for dead seals.
Life is tough here and finding it is hard. But working hard for it makes each sight all the more rewarding.
5 – TERRACE BAY RESORT
Terrace Bay Resort is the end of the road for a road trip on the Skeleton Coast. It’s a desolate place with a handful of small huts sitting on grey gravel looking out to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s peaceful and about as remote as it gets.
Fishermen from up and down the Namibian coast use Terrace Bay as their storage point for their catch and somewhere to sleep on their long trips away from home.
The restaurant at the resort is decorated with messages from previous guests, sribbled on the wall from floor to ceiling. After dinner the fishermen make the rounds, going table by table to say hello to all the guests, in at least 3 different languages.
It’s not a glamorous resort, but the friendly atmosphere, wide-open spaces and expansive views across the ocean make it well worth the trip.
6 – THE DRAMATIC CHANGE OF SCENERY IN DAMARALAND
The endless desolation of rock, sand and gravel is the hallmark of the Skeleton Coast, but as you drive inland on C39 towards Damaraland, the landscape slowly changes. The flat plains start to rise, allowing more clouds to accumulate and evidence of more rain is obvious.
Small patches of soil allow golden grasses and prickly shrubs to grow. The dry river beds are a bit wetter and trees can be found on their banks. Where plants can survive so can animals. Springbok, gemsbok and oryx were dotted on the horizon. Instead of one or two birds, flocks began to gather and swoop on our car.
Exiting the Skeleton Coast National Park at Springbokwasser, we entered the Torra Conservancy and the flat gravel horizons finally give way to hard red basalt rock with towering mesas cut by deep valleys.
It’s a truly glorious scene and one of our top moments in Namibia.
SHOULD YOU DRIVE THE SKELETON COAST?
Drive the Skeleton Coast is a wonderful things to do to see the sheer barrenness of this unique place.
Come to see how men and animals have forged a living. Come to see how – from just a few extra drops of water each year – a landscape can change from grey to red and provide life to creatures great and small. Come to watch the endless battles between seals. Come to chat to the local fisherman and to see and do nothing.
The shipwrecks are few and far between and some quiet difficult to get to, so we wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to see them.
Also, if you’re looking for golden sanddunes crashing into the ocean, you’re looking for Sandwich Harbour, Walvis Bay.
TIPS FOR DRIVING THE SKELETON COAST IN NAMIBIA
Car Hire // The Skeleton Coast can be driven in any car, although a high clearance vehicle or 4×4 is helpful if you want to explore some of the side tracks. Read our driving in Namibia post for helpful tips.
Entrance // Entrance to the Skeleton Coast National Park is either through Ugabmund Gate to the south or Springbokwasser to the east.
Opening times // Ugabmund Gate is open from 7:30 – 15:00 and exit is between 7:30 and 19:00. The Springbokwasser is open from 7:30 to 17:00 and exit is from 7:30 and 19:00.
Supplies // Terrace Bay Resort has a set menu restaurant, bar and small shop. Accommodation is in chalets overlooking the sea and includes breakfast and dinner.
Timings // The drive from Swakopmund to Ugab Gate is 2 hours and 20 minutes, from Ugab Gate to Terrace Bay it’s 2 hours and 10 minutes, and from Terrace Bay to Springbokwasser it’s 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Fuel // Petrol is available at Palmwag to the east, Mile 108 to the south and Terrace Bay (for guests).
SKELETON COAST PERMITS
There are three possible permits you will need to visit the Skeleton Coast National Park.
TRANSIT PERMIT
A transit permit to travel between the two gates is free and can be obtained at either entrance gate. However, this is just for transit. You can’t drive on the road from Torra Bay to Terrace Bay. This means you can’t visit the Uniab River delta on the transit permit.
OVERNIGHT PERMIT
An overnight permit allows you to stay at Terrace Bay Resort. The permit can be obtained at either entrance gate and you’ll need to provide evidence of your booking at the resort. The costs are N$80 per person ($4.80, €4.30, £3.80) plus N$10 per car on top of your accommodation. The overnight permit allows you to drive up to Terrace Bay, but not any further north.
SPECIAL PERMIT
To visit any other part of the park you will need to obtain a permit in advance from the National Parks office in Windhoek.
MORE READING
Walvis Bay Tours – Sandwich Harbour & Pelican Point
Self-drive Etosha National Park
Our complete Namibia itinerary
A BIG THANK YOU
We’ve been providing free travel content on Anywhere We Roam since 2017. If you appreciate what we do, here are some ways you can support us.
Thank you!
Paul & Mark
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
USE OUR RESOURCES PAGE
How incredible! Your photos are stunning! It sounds like an amazing experience. Love the seals and so glad you got to see some other wildlife too.
#FarawayFiles
Thanks, Lisa! Yes, it was a stunning destination – such a great experience. Thanks for stopping by.
The stench of the seal colony is almost smellable through the screen. You have captured this unique and desolate place in such a mesmerizing way. I’m completely drawn in. Not sure if I need to see it myself, but I’m in love with your language and imagery. Thank you kindly for sharing this corner of the world with #FarawayFiles.
Thanks, Erin. It’s probably not the type of trip that is for everybody, but we had a great time. The smell of the seal colony is not easy to forget!
Wow I learnt so much about desolate land today. Loved each and every detail – the history, hoe it got its name, the drive and the changing landscapes. Hope I am able to get there one day and see it with my own eyes
It’s quite an interesting place, although very desolate. Hope you make it there one day as well, you’ll love it.
Skeleton Coast is new to me. Fascinating to experience life on the edge and being on the driest place of earth. Interesting how the place got it’s name. Made me wonder about the people who were victims of the wreck and what all they might have gone through. Glad that the improved navigation systems has reduced these! Driving the Skeleton Coast seems like a great opportunity to catch some amazing wildlife at the Skeleton Coast National Park. Its amazing how nature has a way to have life in this driest place too!
We were amazed by how much life there was out there with hardly any water around, let alone trees to munch on. A very interesting place to travel to.
THIS IS EPIC!! I literally just met up with a friend who got back from 4 months in Africa. She was telling me all about Namibia, and how it was one of the highlights of her trip. I’ll have to ask her about the Skeleton Coast, but regardless, this looks fantastic. Not sure how, but I’d love to cycle it somehow… who knew there was so much going on in Namibia!! Top of the list for sure 🙂
Thanks very much. Yes, there’s so much to see in Namibia it’s fascinating. I’d be very impressed if you cycled some of the Skeleton Coast, it’s pretty desolate. But we did see a few people on bikes so it is possible.
Knowing how Skeleton Coast got its name gives me the chills! It is amazing what you have seen over the course of your entire trip. I would have already been in awe seeing those shipwrecks and sand dunes. To see wildlife in that environment is even more incredible. I would love to experience this!
It’s a great trip and it really surprised us how much is out there as well.
What an incredible, unique experience. You did a great job of not getting anyone’s hopes up for shipwrecks but still making this trip seem worth doing. Well done!
Yes, we wanted people to know what they could expect! Still, it’s a great trip.
This is what I call once in a life time experience! The name itself already intrigued me. Added to it the 200+ days of fog. Wow! Even though there are not too many shipwrecks found along the coast, like you said, your pictures of the shipwrecks and the rig told me a lot about the place.
Thanks, Umiko. It’s a fascinating place full of intrigue. The rig was a bit weird but a great photo opportunity.
What an excellent post Paul, you’ve really convinced me to see the Skeleton Coast one day. Namibia has always intrigued me, for reasons I can’t really explain. I really appreciate your honesty about the landscape; I think as travellers, we’ve become so used to being wowed by everything, to not see that beauty can come in the form of remoteness and barren places. I enjoyed this immensely, and will bookmark for the future.
Thanks, Lisa – glad you enjoyed it. Namibia held a lot of appeal for me as well, and it certainly delivered. The Skeleton Coast definitely has its own kind of beauty that is perhaps not immediately apparent.
Such an incredible experience! It’s scary to know that you can find human bones along with the whale and seal bones that litter the beaches. I would love to see the shipwrecks and sand dunes while driving along the coast. Searching for animals in the area and seeing them are definitely on my list as well.
Yes I guess it is a bit scary to see human bones there! It’s a great destination that’s for sure.
I’ve heard about Skeleton Coast before but now I want to visit even more. It’s absolutely fascinating to experience the driest place on our planet. Driving the Skeleton Coast also seems like a great opportunity to catch some amazing wildlife in the National Park. It’s amazing how these groups found a way to survive in such a dry place!
Thanks, Daniel. Yes, the wildlife opportunities were fantastic particularly so given the remoteness of the landscape.
Epic, epic, epic! We’ve just came back from Namibia, unfortunately the Skeleton coast didn’t fit in our schedule. But seriously, it looks like it would be enough for an entire vacation. I’d love to explore the Hoanib river, see the sand lions etc. Beautiful photography by the way!
Thank you very much. You’ll have to try and get back to see the Skeleton Coast, it’s quite different to other areas of Namibia. There’s so much to see though, it’s hard to fit it all in.
It’s so magical to see these animals free in the nature. I will surely drive to Skeleton Coast to see shipwrecks in rocky coves that would be incredible. What a great adventure you have here I can’t wait to visit here one day!
I am sure you’ll have a great time whenever you go. The wildlife in Namibia is sensational and seemingly everywhere.
What a desolate place, and one I think I’ll take a hard pass on. Still, there is something beautiful about such stark landscape, but I’m not sure I’d fly around the world to see it. There are large stretches of the United States that are barren and feel almost like the moon (Utah, Texas) and after driving 2000 miles through them I think I’ve had my fill of barren. LOL! We visited the Salton Sea last spring and although it has no seals, it does have thousands of dead and decaying fish, and you can smell it from miles and miles away… Nothing quite like that is there? #farawayfiles
2,000 miles is a long way in the wilds of nothing. Sounds cool for the first few hours, but I imagine it can drag a bit. The west coast of Australia is rather similar, literally nothing for miles and miles. I might need to take a pass on Salton Sea as well!
I so enjoyed reading this. I love this part of the world. Would you believe that the captain of the Edward Bohlen was a relative? I have some of the original photographs which are fascinating.
Wow…..that’s great. If you ever get the chance, it would be great if you cold post one of the photos on the our facebook page. Would love to see some original photos of it. It seems you have the genes of an adventurer within you!
This blog is brilliant, the details and the photos are just too good. I haven’t been to these regions yet, I would love to experience this magical land by myself a few years in future.
Hopefully you get the chance. It’s not that difficult to travel around. I am sure you would have a great time.
Your photography is always breathtaking and your posts always so educational. I have been working on my “Grand safari trip” and your blog has been so beneficial in my planning. I am saving this one for additional consideration for the trip!
Thanks Amy. A Grand Safari Trip sounds amazing. You will have to let us know what you intend to do and how it goes. Always looking for tips for the future !!! All the best.
Namibia seems to be such a fascinating place! Where beauty and the circle of life meet! Your pictures are amazing btw!
Thanks a lot. Hope you get to go some time.
Truly outstanding how life still goes on even in the driest place of the earth like the skeleton coast. Even reading about the heaps of skeletons gave me a goosebump. I could not but feel sad about the two people who almost dug 1500m+ in search of oil. Shucks, what a disappointment and waste of effort that would have been! At first, I thought those were huge pyramids that adorned the barren land, their flat top imparted such an impression. Just makes me feel how puny we are in front of ‘nature’.So very glad to read and know about this place through this post of yours.
Thanks a lot. We really had a great day, and so different from many other days on holiday. Eking out a living is a real challenge here, and you are right the power of nature. It is not only seen in volcanoes or crashing waves but also in the most barren and remote places. Thanks for your comment.
Such a detailed description of this unique experience! Your photography skills are on point, and those seals are so adorable btw.
The seals are adorable. As long as you hold your nose and close your eyes!
Oh dear Lord! It definitely sounds scary to begin with!!! However as I read through your post, its more adventurous and inspiring than scary… To some extent it reminds me of Salar de Uyuni as well.
Good to know that with ship wrecks don’t happen here these days, thanks to better navigation gadgets.
What’s surprising is, there is a restaurant in the middle of this almost nowhere place!
A restaurant with remarkable decent food as well! Have to say you had me with Salar de Uyuni – I had to look it up. The worlds largest salt pan at an altitude of 3,600m sounds rather cool. Might have to add this Bolivian spot to my travel list. Thanks.
I never got the chance to thank you for this explicit post and map for the Skeleton Coast! It was such a help to our road trip back in Jan 2020. I didn’t find the Skeleton Coast that eerie after all, but thrilling nevertheless! 🙂
You are welcome. We found it a little hard to know what to do on the drive so thought it might help others. Glad you had a thrilling time and thanks for your comment.