A Complete Guide To The Skeleton Coast Namibia

The Skeleton Coast in Namibia conjures up shipwrecks in foggy coves and dunes crashing into the sea. But it was life at the margins that caught our imagination while driving the Skeleton Coast.

Trapped between the Atlantic Ocean and the central plains, the Skeleton Coast in Namibia is one of the driest places on earth.

Yet the cold currents propelled on-shore from the Atlantic form a dense fog that covers the coast for over 200 days a year.

The name Skeleton Coast comes from the whale and seal bones that litter the beaches. But human bones have also been etched into the land as stranded sailors struggled to survive in this challenging environment.

Many independent travellers skip driving the Skeleton Coast and head inland to the cave paintings at Brandberg and Twyfelfontein.

But we decided to explore a truly remote outpost of the world and see if it lived up to expectations.

Here’s what to see exploring the Skeleton Coast, including a map of where to do and helpful tips on travel times and permits.

WHERE IS THE SKELETON COAST?

The Skeleton Coast stretches 500 kilometres on the northern part of the Atlantic Coast in Namibia from Swakopmund to the Swakop River near the Angola border.

The southern section runs from Swakopmund to the Ugab Gate at the southern end of the Skeleton Coast National Park. This section is outside the national park and can easily be driven on good paved roads.

Skeleton Coast National Park is divided into two sections. The southern section (Ugab Gate to Torra Bay) is self-drive on gravel and salt roads, and visitors must purchase a permit at the entrance gate. The northern section is a true wilderness, accessible only on tours or by flight.

WHY IS IT CALLED THE SKELETON COAST?

The Skeleton Coast is named after the whale and seal bones that once littered the shore from the whaling industry. However, many sources say the name also comes from the shipwrecks that are dotted along the coast.

HOW WE VISITED THE SKELETON COAST?

We really enjoyed exploring the Skeleton Coast. Most visitors only drive the section from Swakopmund to Cape Cross Seal Reserve (1 hour and 30 minutes) and then head back.

But we continued north. Went through the Ugab Gate and into the Skeleton Coast National Park driving all the way up to Torra Bay. This is the furthest north you can get self-driving and it takes about 4 hours 30 minutes (with no stops) from Swakopmund.

We spent the night at Torra Bay and continued on the next day to Damaraland exiting through the Springbokwasser Gate (1 hour 20 minutes from Torra Bay).

You could complete the drive in one day and spend the night in Damaraland, but it would be a long day and we recommend you start early.

SHOULD YOU DRIVE THE SKELETON COAST?

The Skeleton Coast is a dry and barren land, and the scenery is often very flat with shipwrecks few and far between.

But what we enjoyed most was exploring life at the margins. This is a tough place to live, but after research we parked the car in the right spots (locations on map above), walked up and down dry riverbeds and found springbok, oryx, flamingos, ostriches and jackals lurking in the wilderness.

And we had these experiences all to ourselves.

Driving the Skeleton Coast can feel monotonous and if you are short on time and want to cram as much into your Namibia trip as possible take the shorter route inland to Twyfelfontein.

But we loved getting off the beaten track and exploring this untouched wilderness with no-one else about.

Please note that the Skeleton Coast does not include the golden dunes that drop into the sea. These are at Sandwich Harbour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park.

HOW TO VISIT?

Because of the harsh climate and remoteness of the Skeleton Coast National Park, there are strict regulations regarding entrance permits that must be adhered to.

SKELETON COAST NATIONAL PARK ENTRANCE

There are two gates where you can enter the Skeleton Coast National Park:

• Ugab River Gate on the C3 to the south.
• Springbokwasser Gate on the D3245 to the east.

GATE OPENING TIMES

The Ugab River Gate is open from 7:30 am to 3 pm, and exit is between 7:30 am and 7 pm. You must reach the gate by 3 pm, or you will be turned away.

The Springbokwasser Gate is open from 7:30 am to 5 pm, and exit is between 7:30 am and 7 pm. You must reach the gate by 5 pm, or you will be turned away.

DRIVING TIMES

Here are the estimated drive times for the coast.

• Swakopmund to Ugab Gate – 2 hours and 20 minutes.
• Ugab Gate to Terrace Bay – 2 hours and 10 minutes.
• Terrace Bay to Springbokwasser – 1 hour and 20 minutes.

PERMITS

There are three possible permits you will need to visit the Skeleton Coast National Park.

TRANSIT PERMIT 

A transit permit to travel between the two gates is free and can be obtained at either entrance gate.

However, this is just for transit. You cannot drive on the road from Torra Bay to Terrace Bay. This means you cannot visit the Uniab River delta on the transit permit.

OVERNIGHT PERMIT 

An overnight permit allows you to stay at Terrace Bay Resort. The permit can be obtained at either entrance gate, but you need to provide proof of your accommodation to get a permit. You cannot turn up without a booking at one of the camps or you will be turned away.

The costs are N$80 per person plus N$10 per car on top of your accommodation. The overnight permit allows you to drive up to Terrace Bay but not any further north.

SPECIAL PERMIT 

To visit any other part of the park, you will need to obtain a permit in advance from the National Parks office in Windhoek.

WHAT CAR DO YOU NEED?

The Skeleton Coast involves driving on long, flat gravel roads. There is no need for a 4×4, however it might be more comfortable due to all the lumps and bumps in the road.

Read our post on driving in Namibia for helpful tips.

FACILITIES

Fuel is available at Palmwag to the east, Mile 108 to the south and Terrace Bay (for guests only).

Terrace Bay Resort has a set menu restaurant, bar and small shop. Accommodation is in chalets overlooking the sea and includes breakfast and dinner.

WHAT TO DO ON THE SKELETON COAST?

If you decide the Skeleton Coast is for you, here is what we suggest you see. All are marked on the map at the beginning of the post.

1. SEE THE SKELETON COAST SHIPWRECKS

The thick fog that often envelops this coast has claimed many ships. Over the centuries, thousands have been stranded on the rocks and sandbars that stretch out into the sea, and many sailors have met a watery grave.

Just south of Henitesbaai, you’ll find the Zeila, a boat sold for scrap metal that came detached from its towing line in 2008 and ran ashore.

South of the Ugab Gate is another Skeleton Coast shipwreck: the Winston. It’s a long, bouncy side road to get there, and almost all of it has washed away.

North of the gate and just off the main road are the remains of the South West Seal, a 90-tonne South African fishing vessel that caught fire in 1976.

One of the best Skeleton Coast wrecks is not a ship at all but an oil rig. In the late ’60s and ’70s, Ben du Preez and Jack Scott came looking for oil.

Digging down to almost 1,700 metres, they found nothing, leaving a hunk of metal in the middle of the Skeleton desert. All are marked on the map above.

2. VISIT THE CAPE CROSS SEAL COLONY

The thousands of seals at the Cape Cross Seal Colony produce an enormous stench and a cacophony of sound as they make their way to and from the sea to feed on hake, mackerel and lantern fish.

They also fight a lot.

In October, males mark out territory to establish breeding colonies. It’s a brutal time, and in the battles to secure their land and protect their females from other intruders, they may lose half their body weight.

In November and December, the pups are born, and the colony swells to around 200,000, becoming the largest cape fur seal breeding colony in the world.

Within 6 days of giving birth, females are ready to start it all again and begin mating. The pups are born the following November and December.

Seals surround the car park at the Cape Cross Seal Colony.

A 200-metre walkway takes you over their colony. It is a remarkable sight. Seals headbutt each other and bicker for the position; the nose is intense, and the smell extreme.

3. THE MARCHING DUNES OF THE SKELETON COAST

The scenery is stark and desolate in the southern section of the Skeleton Coast Park.

Wide expanses of flat grey gravel reach the horizon, where it shimmers and distorts from the heat of the earth.

It’s impressive in its own inhospitable, bleak way.

It’s a remarkable thing to witness such a stark environment. Getting out of the car and exploring a little on foot, it’s incredible to find insects, lizards and rodents surviving on the moisture of the sea fog.

It’s not beautiful scenery, but thoroughly interesting.

For golden sand dunes that meet the Atlantic Sea, head to Sandwich Harbour near Walvis Bay.

4. LIFE DEFYING THE ODDS IN DRY RIVER BEDS

There’s almost no rain on the Skeleton Coast.

The cool air from the sea and lack of mountains in the area stop clouds from forming, making it one of the driest places on Earth.

With a lack of water, life out here is tough. But, river beds, dry for most of the year, form tiny natural pools as underground water seeps to the surface. These waterholes bring life. (We have marked them on the map above).

The Hoanib River is a great place to stop on a Skeleton Coast road trip, where you’ll find a pool with Egyptian Geese, Moorhens, and other small waders.

Further north, explore the wide delta of the Uniab River, an area with a number of reed-fringed pools. Quietly exploring on foot, we saw two flamingos and an ostrich taking a drink, defying the odds in this harsh environment.

Searching the dunes, more signs of life appear. Beetles scurry over the gravel; rodents pop their heads above the surface, and birds of prey swirl overhead. A jackal suspiciously roams around while his mate searches the coast for dead seals.

5. TERRACE BAY RESORT

Terrace Bay Resort is the end of the road for a road trip on the Skeleton Coast.

It’s a desolate place with a handful of small huts sitting on grey gravel looking out to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s peaceful and about as remote as it gets.

Fishermen from up and down the Namibian coast use Terrace Bay as their storage point for their catch and somewhere to sleep on their long trips away from home.

The restaurant at the resort is decorated with messages from previous guests scribbled on the wall from floor to ceiling. After dinner, the fishermen make the rounds, going table by table to say hello to all the guests in at least 3 different languages.

It’s not a glamorous resort, but the friendly atmosphere, wide-open spaces and expansive views across the ocean make it well worth the trip.

6. THE DRAMATIC CHANGE OF SCENERY IN DAMARALAND

The endless desolation of rock, sand and gravel is the hallmark of the Skeleton Coast, but as you drive inland on C39 towards Damaraland, the landscape slowly changes.

The flat plains start to rise, allowing more clouds to accumulate, and evidence of more rain is obvious.

Small patches of soil allow golden grasses and prickly shrubs to grow. The dry river beds are a bit wetter, and trees can be found on their banks.

Where plants can survive, so can animals. Springbok, gemsbok and oryx were dotted on the horizon. Instead of one or two birds, flocks began to gather and swoop on our car.

Exiting the Skeleton Coast National Park at Springbokwasser, we entered the Torra Conservancy, and the flat gravel horizons finally gave way to hard red basalt rock with towering mesas cut by deep valleys.

MORE NAMIBIA GUIDES

• See the amazing Namibia coastal scenery on a Walvis Bay Tour.
• Read about driving the Skeleton Coast to see if it’s for you.
• Visit the most popular destination in Namibia with our guide to Sossusvlei.
• Self-drive in Etosha National Park with our detailed guide.
• Our guide on where to stay in Etosha covers both inside and outside the park.
• Plan your trip with our 2-week Namibia itinerary.
• Read our tips for driving in Namibia.
• Catch up on our top places to visit in Namibia.