How To Visit The Lake District Without A Car

Getting around the Lake District without a car might seem daunting, but with the right base these handsome fells are surprisingly accessible by public transport. Here’s how to go from sofa to summit – no car keys required.

Alfred Wainwright devoted his life to mapping every peak and path in the Lake District in his meticulously hand-drawn and hand-written guidebooks.

He was perhaps England’s ultimate slow traveller.

Even without a car, we can follow in his footsteps today, exploring the fells, lakes and valleys in a similar spirit. Public transport in the Lake District has come a long way since Wainwright’s time.

But with trains that skirt the edges and buses impeded by narrow country lanes, the trick is knowing how to navigate it all.

Fortunately, it’s much easier than it first appears.  

We visit the Lake District every year, so we know that the key to a successful car-free visit lies in choosing the right place to stay.

In this guide, we’ve selected the 3 best bases in the Lake District if you plan on visiting without a car. We recommend what to do in each location with practical tips on how to get around.

WHERE IS THE LAKE DISTRICT?

The Lake District is a National Park in the north of England. It’s located to the north of Manchester and south of Carlisle.

The whole area is approximately 900 square miles of scenic mountain country. It was awarded a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its contributions to art, literature, traditional farming, and landscape preservation.

GETTING THERE WITHOUT A CAR

The quickest and easiest way to get to the Lake District without a car is by train.

The main West Coast Train Line between London and Glasgow runs along the eastern edge of the Lake District and stops at two convenient stations.

• Oxenholme
• Penrith

From Oxenholme station, regular buses and local trains head to Windermere and the southern and central Fells.

From Penrith Station, regular buses head to Keswick and the northern Fells.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE LAKE DISTRICT WITHOUT A CAR?

There are 3 locations that make the best base if you are visiting the Lake District without a car. They are:

• Keswick in the northern fells.
• Windermere & Bowness in the southern fells.
• Ambleside in the central fells.

They are all relatively easy to get to and each is at the centre of a good bus network, enabling you to explore the surrounding areas.

They all have good facilities, including plenty of shops, restaurants, and bars. Yet each offers a slightly different experience, which we cover in more detail below.

If you stay for a week, it’s easy to combine them as they are all well-connected via local buses.  

• Keswick to Ambleside: 45 minutes by bus.
• Keswick to Windermere: 1 hour by bus.
• Windermere to Ambleside: 15 minutes by bus.

1. KESWICK

WHY KESWICK?

Keswick is set amongst some of the highest mountains in the Fells, and it has plenty of adventure activities and hiking opportunities right on your doorstep.

The town centre is not the prettiest, but the waterfront beside Derwentwater is beautiful. There’s a theatre for cultural evenings, or you can enjoy sunset cruises on the lake.

The main town square has a weekly market and there are plenty of shops and supermarkets to stock up on supplies.

Keswick is easy to reach by public transport and lies at the centre of a good bus network. Buses run south to Grasmere, east to Penrith and west to Cockermouth.

One excellent bus route, a circular loop via Buttermere and Honister, is possibly the most scenic in England.

Keswick is the best place to stay if you want adventure activities, rugged hiking, and dramatic scenery – and you want to do it all without a car.

WHAT TO DO FROM KESWICK?

Staying in Keswick and using the bus routes opens up a host of great things to do. You could easily spend a week here and do something completely different every day.

Here are a few ideas, but you can read more in our guide to the best things to do around Keswick.

Outdoor Activities

1.1. Try Ghyll Scrambling – One of our favourite non-hiking activities in the Lake District is Ghyll Scrambling which involves scrambling down waterfalls in protective gear.

1.2. Climb Blencathra – Take the bus to X4 Threkeld and ascend Blencathra via Sharp Edge, the Lake District’s most challenging grade 1 scramble.

1.2. Kayak on Derwentwater – Kayaks and boats can be hired from the Keswick waterfront to take out on Derwentwater. It’s a lovely way to see the lake.

1.4. Via Ferrata – Take bus 77 (summer timetable only – see dates at end of post) to Honister and test your nerve on the Via Ferrata up Fleetwith Pike. I did the Via Ferrata Xtreme and loved it.

1.5. Black Moss Pot – Take the 78 bus (30 minutes) to Seatoller, then a short walk along the valley to Black Moss Pot – possibly the most fun place to wild swim.

Walks

1.6. Hike Scafell Pike – Take the 78 bus (30 minutes) to Seatoller and walk up England’s highest mountain via the Corridor Route.

1.7. Walk Catbells – One of the most iconic walks in the Lake District. Take the ferry from Keswick over the lake and hike up Catbells.

Towns & Attractions

1.8. Grasmere – In our opinion, this is the Lake District’s prettiest village. It’s 30 minutes on the 555 bus from Keswick. Try gingerbread and explore Wordsworth Cottage.

1.9. Castlerigg Stone Circles – Dating back to 3,000 BCE, the stone circles are 20 minutes from Keswick on bus 73A (Sat only), or bus 555 plus a 1-mile walk (around 20 minutes).

1.10. Buttermere – Take bus 77 (summer timetable only) to Buttermere for one of England’s most scenic bus rides. Stroll around the beautiful lake and try one of the walks up the hills; 3 of our favourite walks leave from here.

HOW TO GET TO KESWICK?

The best way to get to Keswick by public transport is to get the train to Penrith train station and then the bus to Keswick.

Penrith station is on the fast West Coast train line, and it’s particularly convenient from London Euston (3 hours and 15 minutes) and Glasgow (1 hour and 40 minutes). Check times and prices on Omio.

From Penrith train station, numerous regular buses head to Keswick, taking around 40 minutes. Use Stagecoach to plan your journey.

WHERE TO STAY IN KESWICK?

Fellpack House – This recently renovated guest house has a picnic area and sun terrace. Conveniently located halfway between the waterfront and town centre.

Inn on the Square – Right by the market square in the centre of Keswick, this interesting pad mixes Scandinavian coziness and British modern design.

2. WINDERMERE & BOWNESS

WHY WINDERMERE & BOWNESS?

The town of Windermere is not actually on the lake of Windermere, it’s a little set back and in our opinion, not particularly scenic.

But there is a train station in the town centre, making it the easiest place in the Lake District to reach by public transport.

Bowness, another town just a 10-minute bus ride from Windermere, is on the lake.

Combined, they make a good option for exploring the Lake District, but in a very different way than Keswick.

Staying in Windermere and Bowness is more about enjoying the towns and the lake, rather than hiking or adventure activities.

Regular cruises head onto the water and both towns have arts and crafts shops, speciality museums and tea houses. It’s a serene and peaceful spot to stay away for a few days. Some of the hotels are top-notch.

The scenery here is gentler than in Keswick or Ambleside, and getting to the more rugged mountains is a bit trickier.

Nevertheless, Windermere and Bowness are connected via a decent bus network. You can head north to Ullswater, northwest to Ambleside, Grasmere, and Keswick, or south to Newby Bridge.

WHAT TO DO FROM WINDERMERE & BOWNESS?

Here are a few ideas for what you can do if you base yourself at Windermere or Bowness.

Towns & Attractions

2.1. Beatrix Potter – Learn about the life of Beatrix Potter at Hill Top, the charming museum and garden that was once her home. Catch the ferry across Windermere and then the 505 bus (summer timetable only).

2.2. Arts & Crafts – Explore the independent arts and crafts stores and peruse the galleries in Windermere and Bowness.

2.3. Grasmere – Hop on the 599 bus and you’ll be in Grasmere in 35-45 minutes. Try the treats from the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop.

Boat Rides

2.4. Lake Cruise – Enjoy a cruise on Windermere, England’s largest lake. You can try a scenic cruise where you stay on the boat or include popular attractions such as the Lakeland Motor Museum.

2.5. Ullswater – Take bus 508 (summer timetable only) to Glenridding and get a steamboat on Ullswater. If you’re up for it, there’s a great hike up Helvellyn from here.

2.6. Claife Viewing Platform – Get the ferry across Windermere from Bowness to Ash Landing, and walk (2 minutes) up to this colourful viewing platform for views across the lake.

HOW TO GET TO WINDERMERE & BOWNESS?

The best way to get to Windermere without a car is to get the train to Windermere station. There are two common ways to get there: via Oxenholme or via Lancaster.

Oxenholme station is on the fast West Coast train line. It is particularly convenient from London Euston (2 hours 45 minutes) and Glasgow (2 hours). From Oxenholme, a small connector train goes to Windermere (20 minutes) or you can catch the bus.

Lancaster station is also on the fast West Coast train line (2 hours 30 minutes from London) from where trains (less frequent) connect to Windermere (40 minutes).

If you choose to stay in Bowness, it is a short bus ride from Windermere Station.

WHERE TO STAY IN WINDERMERE & BOWNESS?

Jerichos Boutique Accommodation – A family-run guest house tucked on a quiet road behind the main street in Windermere. This is a good value, adults-only option.

Lakes Hotel & Spa – This spa hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Bowness. There are plenty of facilities and extra touches to make the stay special.

3. AMBLESIDE

WHY AMBLESIDE?

Ambleside is a lovely town conveniently located in the centre of the Lake District. It’s very easy to get there by public transport.

The town has an attractive centre with plenty of stores and a great mix of facilities. In our opinion, it is the prettiest of the three places we have suggested.

Best of all, many excellent hikes start right from the centre of town. You could spend a few days here without getting on a bus.

Nevertheless, the town lies on several excellent bus routes. Buses run north to Grasmere and Rydal, south to Windermere town, west to the dramatic Langdale Valley and southwest to foodie Hawkshead.

Ambleside is not just between Windermere/Bowness and Keswick geographically; it also offers a good mix of Keswick’s outdoor adventures and Windermere’s artistic pottering.

It’s the best destination for a diverse Lake District experience.

WHAT TO DO FROM AMBLESIDE?

Staying in Ambleside and using the bus routes opens a host of fun things to do.

You can read our guide to the best things to do around Ambleside for more details, but here are a few ideas.

Boat Rides

3.1. Windermere Ferry – Jump on a ferry at the southern edge of Ambleside and cruise the lake, taking in the beautiful scenery. Find the details on Windermere Lake Cruises.

Walks

3.2. Walk up Loughrigg – Loughrigg is one of the easiest mountains in the Lake District to climb, and it has fantastic views over Ambleside. Trails begin right in the town centre.

3.3. The Langdales – Take bus 516 (summer timetable only) to Dungeon Ghyll and hike up the Langdale Pikes where you’ll find some of the most impressive peaks in the Lake District.

3.4. Rydal Caves – Take the 555 or 599 bus to Rydal Water, hike around the lake, and up to the Rydal Caves. Rydal Water is one of the best spots for open-water swimming in the Lake District.

3.5. Fairfield Round – This excellent high ridge walk leaves from the northern end of Ambleside. It makes for a wonderful, but long, day’s hiking in the hills.

Towns & Attractions

3.6. Wordsworth – Take the 555 or 599 bus to Rydal to visit Rydal Mount and Gardens, the historic home of Wordsworth. Get the same bus to Grasmere, to visit Wordsworth Grasmere, a museum showcasing his life and works.

3.7. Hawkshead – Take bus 505 (summer timetable only) to Hawkshead, a very pretty village with a growing foodie reputation. Explore the artisanal delights and old-school chocolate shops before trying their interesting ales. 

HOW TO GET TO AMBLESIDE?

The best public transport option to Ambleside is to take the train to Windermere train station (as explained in the Windermere section above) and then the bus to Ambleside.

Several buses run regularly from Windermere to Ambleside, and the journey takes only 15 minutes. Plan your journey by bus with Stagecoach.

WHERE TO STAY IN AMBLESIDE?

Ambleside Townhouse – A popular townhouse on the main road in Ambleside. This is a great value stay in the lakes with clean rooms and a decent breakfast.

Lakehouse at Waterhead Inn – Perched on the northern end of Windermere with views of the lake, it’s a 12-minute walk into town.

Rothay Manor – Luxury Country House just a 10-minute walk from the centre of Ambleside. It has old-style luxury with a modern finish, individually designed spaces. The restaurant is highly regarded.

OUR TOP RECOMMENDATION

Where would Anywhere We Roam stay? We think it is a toss-up between Ambleside and Keswick.

For a more rugged adventure, head to Keswick.

For a more diverse mix of experiences, go for Ambleside.

If you are looking for more ideas for places to stay, you can find all our recommendations on where to stay in the Lake District. This guide includes a review of all the areas in the Lake District, along with where to stay and what to do.

WHEN TO GO?

You can visit the Lake District any time of year without a car. However, some of the bus routes are closed or have reduced services in winter.

The more extensive summer bus timetable runs from the beginning of the Easter holidays to the end of the October half-term holidays. We have indicated which routes only operate during this time above.

MAP & RESOURCES

For bus timetables – Use the Stagecoach website to see the bus timetables. Click on the location you are starting from to see bus routes. Use the journey planner for specific times.

For train journeys – Use Omio to search for trips to the Lake District from London, Glasgow or Manchester. They also cover local trains to Windermere.

MORE LAKE DISTRICT GUIDES

• Find your perfect area with our guide to the best places to stay in the Lake District.
• Use our detailed guide to see the Lake District without a car.
• Enjoy a scenic swim in Black Moss Pot.
• Tackle one of our favourite hikes in the Lake District.
• Try one of these amazing wild swimming locations in the Lake District.
• There’s more than hiking, find more great things to do in the Lake District.
• Find one of our top photography spots in the Lake District