Complete Guide to Etosha National Park Namibia (Self-Drive)

A self-drive Etosha safari involves masses of game, chance sightings and glorious long days on the road. But, good planning is required. Here’s our complete guide to Etosha National Park.

An Etosha self-drive safari is one of our all-time favourite wildlife experiences.

Covering 20,000 square kilometres, Etosha National Park is home to 4 of the big 5, including the endangered black rhino.

In the wet season, huge numbers of game stroll the plains.

As the rains end, they congregate around waterholes in this otherwise very dry landscape, creating some of the densest wildlife-viewing opportunities in the world.

Self-driving in Etosha is easy to do and it’s a wonderful experience. But there are a few things to consider.

What do you want to see? What is the best time for viewings? Where should you go? What type of accommodation do you want?

Although game viewing always involves some luck, with a bit of planning, you can significantly increase your chances.

This guide covers exactly how to do that, with all the information to plan your self-drive safari.

WHEN TO VISIT ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK?

Etosha has two seasons. The wet season runs from November to May, and the dry season from June to October.

WET SEASON (NOVEMBER – MAY)

In the wet season, the land is green and lush, the vegetation thick, and the roads can be muddy. The animals spread out over the vast plains and disappear into the bushy shrub.

Some roads are closed, and driving becomes trickier.

DRY SEASON (JUNE – OCTOBER)

The dry season forces animals to congregate around waterholes. As zebra, springbok and impala gather to cool off and drink, opportunistic lions and cheetahs take advantage of knowing where their prey is going to be.

This creates the perfect environment for great game viewing. The later in the dry season you plan a safari in Etosha Park, the better.

VISITING DURING PEAK TIMES

Unfortunately, peak times also bring their own challenges with many tourists having the same idea.

Booking accommodation is much more difficult in the dry season, so we recommend you start booking your self-drive safari at least 9 months to a year before you intend to go.

The other factor to keep in mind is that costs rise over the dry season, and you can expect to pay around 20% to 40% more for accommodation.

But with game viewing far better in the dry season, and as this is what you want to see, we think it is a price worth paying.

We went in September, and while we had some challenges finding accommodation inside the park (more about this later), we had some of the best game-viewing experiences we’ve ever had.

HOW TO GET TO ETOSHA?

Etosha National Park is a 4-hour drive north of Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, and the gateway for most international flights.

The driving is very easy as the road between Windhoek and Etosha is one of the few sealed roads in the country.

If you want to break up the drive from Windhoek to Etosha, Kameldorn Garten in Ojitiwarango is a great place to stop for lunch. They have a nice courtyard garden and a good menu of local specialities at reasonable prices.

ENTRANCE GATES

There are 4 entrance gates to Etosha National Park:

• Anderson Gate in the south.
• Galton Gate in the south-west.
• King Nehale Lya Mpingana Gate in the north.
• Von Lindequist Gate (Naumutoni Gate) in the east.

OPENING TIMES

The entrance and camp gates open at sunrise and close at sunset. So exact times vary throughout the year.

ENTRANCE FEES

When first entering Etosha National Park, you need to provide photo ID, so bring a passport or driver’s license.

The entrance fee for foreign adults is N$150 per day. Children under 16 are free of charge.

Vehicles with up to 10 seats are N$50 per day.

Strangely you do not pay at the gate. Instead you must make your way to the nearest camp (Okaukuejo for the southern gate and Namutomi for the eastern gate) and buy your permit there.

It’s all a little fiddly and takes a bit of time.

Once you have your permit, you can enter and exit as many times as you like.

ETOSHA RESOURCES

• Opening Times & Fees – Check for any updates to fees or opening times.
• Maps – These maps of Etosha are helpful to get your bearings.
• Etosha App – The official Etosha App has offline maps and information about the wildlife.

SELF-DRIVE ETOSHA SAFARI TIPS

Etosha National Park is well suited for self-drive.

Apart from a couple of roads near the entrances, the vast majority of the driving in Etosha is on gravel tracks.

Most roads are relatively straightforward and easy to drive on, but some can become rutted, making journeys a bit slower (and a lot bouncier).

During the rains, mud can cause road closures.

We were in Etosha in September and had no issues driving ourselves around.

A 4X4 IS NOT NECESSARY

Off-road driving is strictly prohibited in Etosha, so a 4WD is not necessary.

However, we would recommend a higher clearance vehicle for better viewing and to make driving a bit more comfortable on Namibia’s very bouncy gravel roads.

As you are probably seeing Etosha on a longer road trip in Namibia, we would suggest hiring a 4×4. This will come in handy in several other places in Namibia.

You can find a lot more details and some money-saving advice in our driving in Namibia post.

KEEP A SLOW PACE

The speed limit throughout Etosha is 60 km/h. On some roads, this would be a very uncomfortable pace to drive at due to the ruts. On many others, 60 km/h is achievable.

But game viewing is not about flying along and potentially missing incredible things. Take your time and travel at something closer to 40 km/h – and you will find it much easier to spot game.

THE DISTANCES ARE VAST 

The distances within the park are vast, and driving between camps takes a long time.

For example, it takes 4 hours to drive from Dolomite Camp to Okaukuejo Camp (without stopping to watch wildlife at all); another 1 hour and 30 minutes to get to Halali and 1 hour and 30 minutes more to get to Namutoni.

Make sure you don’t have to drive too far. The camps close their gates at sunset, and you don’t want to have to rush past potential viewing opportunities because you’re running out of time to get back.

KEEP AN EYE ON THE FUEL  

Fuel is only available at three stations inside the park: Okaukuejo, Namutoni, and Halali. Sometimes, they run out, so never let your gas tank get too low. We filled up whenever we passed a station and were less than two-thirds full.

KNOW HOW TO CHANGE A TYRE

Namibia’s roads are notorious for punctures. We got one in Etosha, and Paul had to get out and change it while I sat in the car and ate a sandwich.

We strongly suggest you check your spare tyre and know how to change it.

Also, remember, you should only get out of your car if you are in a rest camp or one of the fenced-off rest restroom areas.

BEST TIME TO SPOT WILDLIFE

The best time to view the wildlife in almost all safari parks is early morning.

The temperatures are cooler, and lions and leopards – who have been hunting at night – are still on the prowl or eating their kill.

Etosha is no different; we recommend entering the park when it opens at sunrise.

Evening also offers good opportunities as the animals come out from the shade to feed on the open plains or to grab a drink.

Early evening is a particularly good time to see rhino at the waterholes.

Etosha National Park has excellent viewing in the heat of the day in the dry season – a fairly unique phenomenon thanks to the abundance of waterholes.

Vast herds of zebra, springbok, impala and oryx are joined by ostriches, giraffes and elephants trying to cool down and get some much-needed water.

You can simply drive to a waterhole, sit there, and watch the steady parade of animals make their way to and from the pool.

So, unlike many other parks, Etosha National Park is an all-day experience – especially in the dry season.

We headed out at sunrise, stayed out all day with our eyes peeled and returned to our rest camp accommodation at sunset (when the park shuts).

Also, a number of waterholes are lit at night, so the viewing doesn’t stop when the sun goes down.

WHERE TO SEE WILDLIFE IN ETOSHA?

Etosha National Park is big, and the animals are free to go where they want inside the park. From our research and personal experience, here are some places to head to to maximise your viewing opportunities.

WATERHOLES (FOR EVERYTHING)

In general, you’re best opportunity to see great wildlife will be at the waterholes. You will see not only herds of antelope but also giraffes, rhinos, and elephants, who are regular visitors.

The best waterholes for great game viewing in the middle of the day are:

• Ozonjuitji m’Bari
• Okaukuejo
• Chudob
• Groot Okevi
• Ombika
• Gemsbokvlakte
• Charitsaub
• Rietfontein
• Sonderkop

LIONS 

Lions are fairly widespread throughout the park, but you need to catch them early in the morning; otherwise, they will just sit in the shade of a tree.

Some good locations include Groot Okevi, Rietfontein, Okondeka and along the road past Ozonjuitji m’Bari and Sonderkop to Dolomite Camp.

LEOPARDS 

Leopards are shy loners and are notoriously difficult to spot. We got very lucky and spotted a leopard walking across the road, but that is a fairly rare experience in Etosha.

Your best bet is to check the sighting boards in the camp or ask other people if they have had any luck.

Halali and Goas are generally considered good spots.

CHEETAHS 

Cheetahs love wide open spaces, so this is where you need to look. They are best found around Charitsaub, Gemsbokvlakte, Leeubron and on the road to Twee Palms.

Cheetahs hunt in the day but like the cooler weather, so morning and evening are ideal.

BLACK RHINO

The three floodlit waterholes at Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni Camps provide great nighttime viewing of rhino.

By far, the best of these is Okaukuejo, where a steady procession of wildlife makes its way to and from the pool well into the wee hours.

Black rhinos, lions and hyenas are not uncommon here, and there are regular stand-offs as animals scrap for water rights.

ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK SAFARI MAP

We drove almost every road in Etosha and have marked a few promising locations on the map below. This isn’t an exact science, but hopefully, it will help you maximise the game viewing on your safari in Etosha.

WHERE TO STAY IN ETOSHA

There are two options when it comes to booking accommodation in Etosha: staying inside or outside the park.

The best game viewing is in the early morning, so staying inside the park is a huge benefit. If you stay inside the park, you can simply drive out of the rest camp gates as soon as the park opens.

If you stay outside the park, you have to drive further, and you may need to go and pay your fees at a camp, which can take up valuable time.

The other benefit is that the waterholes at the camps are floodlit at night when many interesting animals come to drink.

If you are outside the park, in a property that is not on a reserve with its own waterhole, you will miss out on some of the best game viewing opportunities.

The downside to staying inside the park is that the government-run camps are functional and basic. You often feel like part of a process than a guest.

But for us, the decision is clear: we will always take animal viewing over service and luxury – the reason we came to Etosha in the first place.

The main benefit of staying outside the park is that you can stay somewhere with far more comfort and luxury. In fact, some of the lodges near Etosha are downright sumptuous.

CAMPS IN ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

There are 6 rest camps in Etosha National Park, all run by the government-owned Namibian Wildlife Resorts.

OKAUKUEJO

Okaukuejo is located in the south of the Park, around 17 kilometres from Andersson Gate.

They have a bar/restaurant, swimming pool, shop and fuel station. The waterhole is lit at night and is considered one of the best places for nighttime game viewing in Etosha.

All rooms have ensuite bathrooms, and you can pay extra to have a premium chalet overlooking the waterhole. However, the balconies are drab, and some have their view of the obscured by trees.

HALALI

Halali is in a central location, halfway between Namutoni and Okaukuejo. The thicker vegetation in the area makes it more popular with leopards, rhinos and elephants.

They also have a floodlit waterhole. However, the number of wildlife is generally much lower than in Okaukuejo.

Rooms have ensuite bathrooms, and some come with kitchenettes. There is a swimming pool, bar/restaurant, and fuel.

NAMUTONI

Namutoni is in the eastern part of Etosha, and the closest gate is Von Lindequist Gate.

There is a deck overlooking the waterhole that has lots of reeds. It’s particularly good for bird spotting but probably not as good for large mammals.

Each chalet has an en-suite bathroom, and some have outdoor showers.

OLIFANSTRUS

Olifantsrus Camp is a camping-only location in the remote western section of the park. It’s approximately 60 km from Galton Gate, 130 km from Okaukuejo and 50 km from Dolomite Camp.

The area is good for black rhinos, impala and elephants. In particular, the state-of-the-art hide is great for watching elephants.

There are fewer facilities at Olifanstrus, and it’s more of a bush experience. There is a communal shower block, communal kitchen and very basic kiosk.

Most importantly, there is no fuel at Olifanstrus.

DOLOMITE CAMP

Dolomite Camp is on the park’s western side in an area of restricted visitor numbers. The closest gate is Galton Gate.

There are 20 luxury tents with elevated views of the plains. The pool is stunning, and there’s a small campfire where you can have pre-dinner drinks under the stars.

It’s the most expensive of the government-run camps, but unfortunately, the service is not really up to scratch.

There is no fuel station at Dolomite Camp.

ONKOSHI CAMP

Onkoshi Camp is an upmarket camp in the remote northeastern section of the park on the edge of the Salt Pan.

There are 15 free-standing chalets in an enormous expanse of nothing, facing the salt pan, far removed from other visitors. Each chat has an ensuite bathroom and indoor/outdoor showers.

Onkoshi has no fuel, so make sure you fill up before you go.

WHERE TO STAY OUTSIDE THE PARK?

There are several accommodation options outside the park near the Anderson Gate and the Von Lindequist Gate.

The main advantage of staying outside the park is the wide range of accommodation options.

There are budget camps, mid-level guesthouses and luxury tented camps. They are privately run, and the service is much better than you’ll find inside the park.

We have all the details in another guide dedicated to accommodation options in Etosha.

BOOKING ETOSHA ACCOMMODATION

More than any other destination we have been to, accommodation in Namibia gets booked up well in advance.

The camps inside Etosha are no exception.

Ideally, start booking a year before you plan to travel. If that’s not possible, book some places with free cancellation, outside the park if necessary, and grab the accommodation in the park as it becomes available.

We found rooms became available throughout the year as tour groups cancelled the spots they booked in advance.

Annoyingly, it does mean you have to keep going onto the website to check for availability.

HOW LONG DO YOU NEED?

We spent 5 nights in Etosha, but we needed to spend a bit longer to do our research and collect information.

Based on our experience, we think 3 to 4 days is the ideal amount of time to spend in Etosha. This will allow you to cover different areas and increase your game-viewing opportunities.

Our detailed 2-week Namibia itinerary has all the information for incorporating Etosha into a longer road trip.

OUR ETOSHA PARK ITINERARY

DAY 1: DOLOMITE CAMP

Stay 1 night at Dolomite Camp (entering the park via Galton Gate). We recommend a bush chalet for a slightly classier experience to start your self-drive Etosha safari.

DAY 2: OKAUKUEJO CAMP

Stay the next night at Okaukuejo Camp in basic accommodation for a night. Spend the evening in front of the amazing floodlit waterhole.

DAY 3: NAMUTONI OR HALALI OR MUSHARA

On the 3rd day, stay somewhere that allows you to explore the eastern part of the park.

Namutoni (good for bird watching and cheetahs) or Halali (good for leopards) are fine, but because their floodlit waterholes are less good than Okaukuejo, you could spend one night outside the park with better facilities, especially if you are not planning to re-enter the park the next morning.

DISTANCES BETWEEN THE CAMPS

The table below shows the driving distances between the camps in Etosha in kilometres. As you can see, some of the distances are large.

km	Okaukuejo	Halali	Namutoni	Dolomite	Onkoshi
Okaukuejo		56	115	173	179
Halali	56		75	229	139
Namutoni	115	75		288	64
Dolomite	173	229	288		352
Onkoshi	179	139	64	352

WHERE TO EAT IN ETOSHA?

Okaukuejo, Namutoni and Halali Camps serve 3 buffet meals a day.

Breakfast is included in the room price but non-guests can purchase any meal there as well.

The only other food options in the park are the shops at the same camps: Okaukuejo, Namutoni and Halali.

They sell basic supplies like crisps, biscuits, water, beer and soft drinks, but if you want to buy food to make your own lunch, that would be very tricky.

Creating even a basic picnic lunch from these places is not easy. So stop at a supermarket before you enter the park and buy enough food for lunches for a few days.

Remember, you can’t get out of the car anywhere to have a picnic, you need to be in one of the fenced of rest sites.

But you can pull up to a waterhole, wind down the windows, and watch the steady processions of animals while you munch on a sandwich.

TIPS FOR VISITING ETOSHA

Sun Protection – Etosha is hot and sunny, so bring a sun hat, sunblock and sunglasses.

Rug Up – It gets cold at night, so bring layers of clothes for a range of temperatures.

Binoculars – Very handy for spotting wildlife that refuses to approach the car.

Torch – Most of the camps don’t have much external lighting, so a torch is handy to get from the restaurant back to your lodging.

Telephoto – We used a 300mm telephoto lens for all the images in this article. But the better and larger the lens, the more you can photograph.

Malaria – Etosha is a malaria region, so make sure you have insect repellent and try not to get bitten (long trousers at night). Antimalarials are recommended for most people so check with your doctor before you leave.

Power Adaptors – Namibia is one of the few places in the world where our universal power adaptors didn’t work. It has the same power socket as South Africa, so you need this one.

Maps – Download a Custom Map of the area on Google Maps. That way, you can track yourself and see the road network, even if you don’t have access to data.

Internet – There is a charge for using the internet in all the camps in Etosha. However, the username and password you purchase can be used at any camp until it runs out.

MORE NAMIBIA GUIDES

• See the amazing Namibia coastal scenery on a Walvis Bay Tour.
• Read about driving the Skeleton Coast to see if it’s for you.
• Visit the most popular destination in Namibia with our guide to Sossusvlei.
• Self-drive in Etosha National Park with our detailed guide.
• Our guide on where to stay in Etosha covers both inside and outside the park.
• Plan your trip with our 2-week Namibia itinerary.
• Read our tips for driving in Namibia.
• Catch up on our top places to visit in Namibia.