Playa Larga is an under-visited fishing village around 2.5 hours south of Havana. As the gateway to Cuba’s largest wilderness area and with some of the best snorkelling and diving in the country, it’s an excellent destination on the time-warped tropical island.
Playa Larga, a small fishing village on the Cuban coast, is the gateway to the Cienaga de Zapata National Park. A varied ecosystem of wetlands, mangrove forests, coral reefs and underwater canyons, it’s home to a massive variety of colourful birds and tropical fish.
And, unlike most Cuban beachfront towns, Playa Larga is not fronted by sterile hotels. Instead it’s a product of local invention. Playa Larga-ians have converted their homes into accommodation and terraces into bars, creating an altogether cooler vibe.
Here’s a quick guide of our favourite things to do in Playa Larga and some tips on the best ways to chill out.
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WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES AT PLAYA LARGA
The sprawling Ciénaga de Zapata National Park surrounding Playa Larga, offers some stunning wildlife encounters. Visit distinct ecosystems including flat swampy grasslands, dense mangrove forests, stunning coral reefs, underwater canyons and vast wetlands. Guides and transport can be organised at the Ciénaga de Zapata National Park Office which is located on the main road in Playa Larga.
Here are some of the key locations in Ciénaga de Zapata.
BERMEJA FOREST RESERVE
The Bermeja Forest Reserve is home to 20 of the 28 colourful species endemic to Cuba including the bee hummingbird. Get a guide and take a walk spotting these colourful creatures. Bird watching tours can be organised via the National Park office or your casa particular host.
ZAPATA WETLANDS
The Zapata Wetlands is a lush region of dense forest, cut by rivers leading to mangrove-lined coastal lagoons. Discover a swathe of pink in the form of thousands of flamingos that call this beautiful part of Cuba home. Organise a boat trip at the park office and have your camera ready.
Full Guide – Visiting Ciénaga de Zapata
SENDERO ENIGMA DE LAS ROCAS
Take an educational half-day walk through the Enigma de las Rocas to find endemic birds, creepy bats, crabs and a weird crocodile fish. Tours start in Playa Girón where you’ll be transported to the start of the 2-kilometre hike. Bring your swimming gear for a swim in the cenote at the end.
WETLANDS AROUND PLAYA LARGA
Surrounded by oceans and a variety of waterways, Playa Larga is an excellent centre for enjoying a host of different aqua-inspired activities. Explore enchanting blue seas, deep eerie cenotes and crocodile-infested waters.
SNORKEL AND DIVE IN BAY OF PIGS
The turquoise waters of the Bay of Pigs are inviting enough for lounging on the beach. But, just a few metres off-shore, a coral reef contains masses of tropical fish and a few sunken ships. It’s a great spot for snorkelling and diving. Several places offer combined snorkelling and diving tours or you can just head off from the beach if you have your own snorkelling equipment.
CUEVA DE LOS PECES
Just t a few meters inland, the small but very deep cenote, Cueva de los Peces is another great location for a dip. It’s an interesting place for snorkelling but it’s really the preserve of divers who can disappear into the maze of underwater caves hidden in the 70-metre deep cenote. Organise guided tours through your accommodation who will arrange transport for you.
CRIADERO DE COCODRILOS
The Criadero de Cocodrilos is a crocodile breeding facility that is aimed at protecting 2 species (the Cuban and the American) that were almost extinct just 50 years ago. Take an informative tour through the different breeding stages and visit the different swaps to get a closer look. The facility is in Carreter, just north of Playa Larga.
HISTORIC SITES AROUND PLAYA LARGA
Playa Larga and the nearby Playa Girón (Bay of Pigs) have a firm place in Cuban history. Spend some time discovering the region’s interesting past.
RECONSTRUCTED TAÍNO VILLAGE
Only accessible by boat, Hotel Guamá has been built in the image of a Taíno village. Spread across a number of small islands it tries to recall the time before the Spanish arrived when local indigenous tribes ran their own lives. Ferries and speedboats run from Boca de Guamá.
BAY OF PIGS MUSEUM
Just half an hour’s drive east of Playa Larga, the Bay of Pigs Museum details the failed CIA-sponsored invasion of Cuba. The museum plays the victory for all its worth with tanks, planes and guns on the lawn and detailed information boards inside. Please note, all the information in the museum is in Spanish.
PLAYA LARGA TOWN CENTRE
A stroll around the streets of Playa Larga will uncover the remnants of the Cuban – American conflict. An old old tank takes pride of place at the entrance and Fidel statues overlook the main street. Several murals detailing the invasion and Fidel’s glorious victory are located throughout the town.
BEACHES AROUND PLAYA LARGA
Many of Cuba’s beaches are overlooked by sterile 1960’s hotels, but the fishing village of Playa Larga is a delightful exception. The beaches here have the relaxed, tropical vibe you’d expect from the Carribean, but delivered in a unique Cuban way.
PLAYA LARGA & PLAYA MAQUINA
Playa Larga has a few stretches of sand just in front of the main road, but for the best afternoon on the beach, join the locals just east of town where most of the beach-going takes place. The other great beach is Playa Maquina, which has powdery white sand just 3 kilometres east of town.
SOL Y CARIBE ON CALETON BEACH
In the evening, congregate with the locals at Sol Y Caribe beach bar on Caleton beach. Pull up a chair, grab a mojito, sit back under the swaying palms and listen to the musings of the band ebb and flow in the breeze.
DINE AT A CASA PARTICULAR
At Playa Larga, locals are adapting to the lifting of restrictions on private businesses. Casas particulares in prime locations have the best food in town. Pop in to see Alexis and Dignora at the Gran Hostel and ask if they have something from today’s catch they can whip up for dinner. You won’t be disappointed.
PLAYA LARGA – PRACTICALITIES
Playa Larga is a fishing village where homeowners are slowly adapting their houses to allow guests. It’s a relaxed place to unwind in Cuba but don’t expect a wide range of facilities. Here are a few essentials for Play Larga.
CASH
There is no ATM in Playa Larga any money you need, you’ll need to bring with you. There’s a CADECA exchange office in town that can convert foreign currency and most places take a non-US credit/debit card. For more information about money matters, read our top Cuba travel tips article.
ESSENTIALS
There is a small supermarket next to Casa Tiki restaurant where you can stock up on supplies. They have a limited range (like many supermarkets in Cuba) but you can pick up snacks and other essentials. Don’t be surprised if prices change from one day to the next.
WIFI
There is no retailer in Playa Larga that provides ESTECA WIFI cards, so bring a stash of them with you. Your casa particular host may be able to help, otherwise, there are lads roaming the bus stop in Playa Girón who will sell you one.
WHERE TO STAY IN PLAYA LARGA
Thanks to an abundance of locals trying to get into the lucrative private accommodation market, there are plenty of casas particulares to choose from in Playa Larga. Here are some of our picks:
BUDGET – CASA CARIBE STAR
Overlooking the local harbour, Casa Cariba Star is perfectly located between the shops and restaurants of Playa Larga and the beach bars of Caleton, both of which are a very short walk.
MID-RANGE – HOSTAL ENRIQUE
This hostel, one road back from the lovely Caleton beach and in the middle of the village, has large air-conditioned rooms, decent food and terraces to enjoy the sea breeze.
MAP / THINGS TO DO IN PLAYA LARGA
All the locations in this guide are included on our map so you can hit the ground running in Playa Larga. Just click on the star to save this map to your places in Google maps.
How to use this map / Click on the top left of the map to display the list of locations, then click on the locations to display further information. Click on the top right corner of the map to open a larger version in a new tab or the star to save to your Google Maps.
WHERE NEXT?
Cuba is a unique place. Years of Soviet-funded political ideology created a strong- if slightly confusing – sense of national identity. Soviet, American, Spanish, Caribbean and African influences fuse together to create a fascinating place to visit. Here is some more of our reading about this fascinating place.
Our complete guide to Trinidad
Viñales Valley – cycle routes through Cuban tobacco farms
How to visit Cuba’s Ciénaga de Zapata National Park
Explore the best scenery in Cuba on this Viñales Valley hike
Impressions of Havana – a story from the streets
A BIG THANK YOU
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Excellent! Haven’t been to Cuba but definitely quite high on my list. You have encouraged me to move it up on the list.
Glad to hear it.
I was just about to say that I missed Playa Larga when I was in Cuba but reading on and seeing your photos, I definitely was there. I remember how clear the water was and how close the multicolored fish were to the shore. I have visited the Museum from the Pay of Pigs as well.
It’s a bit underrated and most people see a bit of it at least on the bus route.
Playa Larga looks like my kind of place. The low-key, organic style of tourism definitely appeals to me. Reminds me a bit of the vibe on the south coast of Jamaica, like Treasure Beach. If I ever manage to check Cuba off my list, a few days in Playa Larga may be in order.
Playa Larga is a great way to escape the beach resorts on the other side of the country and have a more authentic experience.
First time I heard about Playa Larga from one of my Cuban colleague. I got ful isight from your post. I don’t know when can I visit this place but I will surely keep your guide in mind if I visit the place.
Thanks for your comments, glad you liked it.
Cuba has always fascinated me- I hope we’ll be allowed to travel there someday in the future. Our boys just started snorkeling this summer and love it- so I know they would love this location!
Yes, it can be tricky for American’s, but I think there are some ways to get around it.
Playa Larga sounds so interesting. My husband and I spent our honeymoon in Cuba but in a resort in Varadero. It was at a time when our holidays meant booking a package holiday. We’ve become a lot more adventurous since having our son and I’d love to return to Cuba and really go explore this fascinating island. Playa Larga sounds like it would tick a lot of boxes for us.
We were in Varadero for a bit as well but didn’t’ stay in a resort. Playa Larga was great though, much more local feel.
Great ideas and relaxing things to do in Cuba. I think this is the popular destination during summer, though I haven’t been there. so I will keep these in mind.
Thanks, Laurence. It’s an interesting place.
That’s a lovely read and guide. It looks really untouched and beautiful in Playa Larga! I’ve never been to Cuba but the pictures definitely make me want to, especially the sunset one, so beautiful. I love remote places like these.
Thanks, Paulie. There are still lots of more remote places like this in Cuba.
Cuba is on our travel list for next year. Playa Larga looks stunning and a very interesting place to visit.
Thanks, Larch. Have fun when you go.
Cuba is one of my favourite places, I would love to go back and visit Playa Larga is sounds beautiful. Will defo look into staying around this area next time I visit!
Nice. We had a great time as well. Such an interesting country.
Cuba is definitely on my list of places to visit. I had an opportunity to explore Cuba a few years back, but other things needed to be taken care of and I was not able to go. I see more tourists venturing out and Cuba and I am so glad. I think, I hope the country is on the track of recovery from destruction of communism regime.
I think Cuba is getting more and more popular, but it still feels like there are some untouched places.
I never knew about Playa larga before reading your post but it looks cute coastal town. Mixing up with with the locals at Sol Y Caribe beach bar on Caleton beach would be a great thing to do here.
We didn’t know about it either until we did our research. But it was a great addition to our itinerary.
Amazing post. Never been to Cuba, but after reading this post, its definitely going into my travel bucket list. I will surely keep your traveling tips and guide before visiting this place.
Thanks, Jiwesh. We loved Cuba, such a fascinating place.
I think I have the laid back vibes already. I could spend days wandering around looking at the birds and the fish, and walking the shoreline at dusk. When you say “fishing village” I’m transported back to childhood, and this would be the bohemian version of my adventures. It sounds magnificent.
Thanks, Bernadette. It was a bit like that, the birdwatching was amazing.
Playa Larga looks adorable and perfect being so close to the Cienaga de Zapata National Park with all the nature and wildlife. I’d love to take the educational half-day walk through the Enigma de las Rocas. The snorkelling in the Bay of Pigs sounds amazing, seeing all the tropical fish. What an awesome place to explore!
Cienaga was a fantastic addition to our Cuba itinerary, so many amazing birds to spot.
It will sound crazy but when I was in Cuba, I hardly spent any time on the beach – I kept exploring. Also, I wasn’t interested in visiting Varadero at all. Playa Larga, however, sounds great and like a beach I would have enjoyed a lot. Need to pin this to remember on my next trip to Cuba.
Yes, Varadero is full of all-inclusive resorts which look a little dreary. Playa Larga is very local.
I love how well-designed your blog posts are to present your mini-travel guides! Also love the personal touch of adding a playlist, it adds to all the ways one can discover a travel destination.
Thanks a lot. Glad you liked it.
We passed through on Viazul Bus on the way tp Cienfuegos – looks like we should have stopped. It looks beautiful and not like the beaches on the other side of Cuba. The ones with the high rise 60s as you have mentioned. What a shame we did not research more about this area and the Bay of Pigs.
It was a bit of a highlight on our Cuba trip. You’ll have to go back!
Playa Larga sounds really cool and like it is a little more undiscovered than other places in Cuba. Even though it is a small fishing village, it seems like there is a lot to do there. It would be so cool to see the flamingos in the Zapata Wetlands. I would love getting the fresh catch of the day at la Casa Particular.
Thanks, Elizabeth. It’s always good to find some less well-known places, and Playa Larga was certainly that for us in Cuba.
Cuba is definitely somewhere I want to visit one day, and I’m getting soulful vibes after reading this post. I think it’s great to read about a beach and town like Playa Larga as it’s not commonly written about. I’ve read plenty about the wifi so will be sure to be prepared!
The wifi situation can be a bit of a pain if you need to do something, but otherwise, it’s quite nice to be disconnected for a little bit.
If there is one place I want to visit in next couple of years, it’s definitely Cuba! This was a great guide for someone going there for the first time like me. I am a big lover of national parks so I’m happy to see that they also have some. Also, snorkling would be on my list.
Thanks, Paula – glad you found it useful.
When I hear Cuba, the whole Carribean, with its white beaches and turquoise blue seas comes to mind. Reading about Playa Larga is enlightening to me. I actually feel excited. I’d like to experience the beaches and wildlife at the same time. Playa Larga sounds just like one.
Thanks, Cat. That’s certainly the goal: to get people excited about somewhere different. Glad you liked it.
I have always wanted to go to Cuba! I do have one question though, is the Bay of Pigs you mentioned like Pig Beach in Exuma with pigs wandering around everywhere? Or is it just the name?
It’s just a name, no pigs wandering around. Although you do find lots of pigs in Cuba – in the countryside many households will have a pig.
Playa Larga sounds like an amazing place! I love visiting small tourist-y towns, as I feel like I get a more authentic feeling for the area. I love that the beach is so close and that the place is (apaprently) teeming with wildlife!
Thanks, Jim. You’d love Playa Largo then.
Playa Larga sounds wonderful! It’s so good to know that there aren’t any ATMs there. Although I rarely make an ATM visit when I travel, it’s good to know! Those waters look absolutely blue and clear, so I bet snorkeling would have been wonderful! And I’d love to see the flamingoes at the Zapata Wetlands! I’ve seen flamingoes in the wild once and it was such a treat!
We spent quite a bit of time looking for ATM’s in Cuba – it’s an expensive country and cards are not accepted anywhere. Plus with the embargoes on US cash, all other avenues for getting money are blocked by queues of Americans.