Guide For First-Time Visitors To The Italian Dolomites (What To Do & Tips)

The Italian Dolomites is our go-to destination for sublime hiking in some of the finest scenery in the European Alps. This guide covers all the information you need to plan your first trip to the Dolomites.

On our first visit to the Dolomites, we were staggered at just how beautiful this place is.

Lush alpine valleys, dramatic jagged mountains, picturesque turquoise lakes and rocky wilderness areas make it the ideal playground for some of the best hiking we’ve done anywhere.

Mark and I have visited several times, and we’ve put this guide together based on our experiences exploring the many corners of the Dolomites.

We’ve included a breakdown of the different regions of the Dolomites, the highlights in each of them, plus tips for getting around and where to stay.

WHAT ARE THE ITALIAN DOLOMITES?

The Dolomites is a region in northern Italy made up of glaciers, lakes, forests, and mountains. They are known for their distinctive and striking rock formations including spires, pinnacles, and sheer vertical walls.

In 2009, the Dolomites were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their natural beauty and geological significance.

The area is ideal for hiking and cycling. With over 1,200 kilometres of ski slopes and 450 lifts, the Dolomites is also one of the largest ski areas in the world.  

For an overview, read our guide to the top places to visit in the Dolomites.

WHERE ARE THE DOLOMITES?

The Dolomites form the eastern section of the northern Italian Alps and are located in the Italian regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto/Südtirol, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

Covering an area of around 140,000 hectares, the Dolomites are roughly 250 kilometres long and 100 kilometres wide, with a total of 18 peaks above 3,000 metres in altitude.

WHAT TO DO IN THE DOLOMITES?

The best way to think about what you can do in the Dolomites is by region, all of which offer something slightly different.

CORTINA & THE EASTERN DOLOMITES

Cortina d’Ampezzo is an excellent base, especially for first-time visitors to the Dolomites. It has some of the best hiking trails in Italy, stunning cable car viewpoints and beautiful lakes.

We have a full guide on what to do in Cortina, but here is a summary of the highlights in the area:

1. Tre Cime Hike – Tre Cime is one of the most popular hikes in the Dolomites and for good reason. All the details are on our Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop guide.

2. Cima Tofana – This cable car rises up to 3,244m from just outside Cortina, and the views are incredible.

3. Lago di Braies – It’s the most popular but also one of the most beautiful lakes in the Dolomites. All the details on visiting are in our Lago di Braies guide.

4. Lago di Sorapis – This lake is not as popular as Lago di Braies, but it’s definitely our pick of the two. It’s a slightly difficult hike to get to, so you’ll often have this pristine place all to yourself. Read our detailed Lago di Sorapis hike guide.

5. Falzarego Pass & Giau Passes – Located between Cortina and Bolzano / Selva, these are the two most spectacular passes to drive in the Dolomites. You can do them in any 2WD car.

6. Lagazuoi Cable Car – Take the cable car to Rifugio Lagazoui (2,753m) for dramatic Dolomites views and the remnants of World War I tunnels.

VAL GARDENA & THE CENTRAL DOLOMITES

Val Gardena is a valley in the central Dolomites with 3 main towns: Ortisei (St Ulrich), Santa Cristina (St Cristina), and Selva di Val Gardena (Wolkenstein in Gröden).

The towns are connected by frequent buses, and each has an excellent cable car network that leads up to the surrounding mountains. As such, Val Gardena is an excellent destination for seeing the Dolomites without a car.

We have a more detailed guide to visiting Val Gardena, but here are some highlights:

7. Seceda Ridgeline – This is our top pick of things to do in the Dolomites. It’s an incredible ridge line that you can get close to via the cable car from Ortisei.

8. Alpe di Siusi – High peaks and pinnacles surround this stunning alpine meadow. It’s a beautiful spot, and you can get the cable car there from Ortisei.

9. Gardena & Sella Passes – The Gardena Pass reaches an elevation of 2,136 metres with jaw-dropping views of the incredible Puez-Odle peaks and Fanes Group. The Sella Pass has wonderful views of the Sassolungo Group.

10. Sassolungo Circuit – This is one of our favourite longer hikes in the area. It circumnavigated a stunning mountain with diverse scenery. All the information is on our Sassolungo Circuit guide.

11. Val di Funes – The charming Val di Funes has a popular photo spot, but there are plenty of other great things to do. More details are in our dedicated Val di Funes guide.

12. Sass Pordoi – The cable car up to Sass Pordoi reaches a 2,950-metre-high rocky wilderness for a completely different view of the Dolomites.

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO & THE WESTERN DOLOMITES

The Western Dolomites are located in the Trentino-Alto Adige region and include the Brenta Dolomites and the Adamello-Presanella group.

Characterized by towering limestone peaks cut with vertical walls and ledges, the distinctive pink rock formations that have given the Dolomites its UNESCO World Heritage Site listing are most evident here.

Here are some things to do around Madonna di Campiglio.

13. Brenta Peaks – Take the Grostè Cable car to the rocky high wilderness area around the Brenta Peaks.

14. Rifugio Tuckett – Have lunch at this rifugio in the Brenta Dolomites, one of the most spectacularly set mountain huts in the Dolomites. We cover how to get there on our Dolomites day hikes guide.

15. Cascate Di Lares – This beautiful waterfall in Val Genova is easily reached via a short walk. Park at Ponte Verde in Lower Val Genova, which is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm. 

16. Bocchette Centrali This via historic ferrata is one of the most famous in the world. It’s rated moderately difficult but there are no technically difficult sections.

17. Lago Ritorto – Take the Cinque Laghi cable car and then the short walk to Lago Ritorto, another scenic lake in the Dolomites.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE DOLOMITES?

Working out where to base yourself for your first visit to the Dolomites can be difficult. There are plenty of different areas, each offering something a little different.

The best approach when picking accommodation is to decide on the hikes you want to do sights you want to see (using our list above) and let that determine where to stay.

As you really need a car to see the Dolomites properly (except in Val Gardena), it doesn’t matter too much which town or village you pick.

Here are some of the main areas we recommend, however we have a more detailed guide on where to stay in the Dolomites which you might find useful as well.

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO & THE EASTERN DOLOMITES

Cortina d’Ampezzo is surrounded by some of the most famous peaks in the Dolomites, so it is a great base if you want to do the best hikes.

The town itself has plenty of facilities, but it’s also one of the most expensive places.

SELVA OR ORTISEI IN THE CENTRAL DOLOMITES

Selva is surrounded by some of the most diverse scenery in the Dolomites, including the Seceda viewpoint, Alpe di Siusi and Val di Funes.

It’s also very well-connected with frequent tourist buses in summer, so it’s a good choice if you want to see amazing scenery with options to do so without hiking.

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO IN THE WESTERN DOLOMITES

Madonna is in a more remote part of the Dolomites, and it’s the perfect choice if you like getting off-the-beaten-track.

There are some fantastic hikes here, however, given the location, we’ll only recommend staying here after you have seen some of the more popular destinations mentioned above.

BEST TIME TO VISIT THE ITALIAN DOLOMITES

When planning a trip to the Dolomites, it’s important to note that most of the main hiking trails are only open from June to September.

May can be a good time to visit, however, there may be persistent snow on the trails, particularly the higher ones.

We tried to do the high pass on the Lago di Sorapis hike in May and had to turn around because there was too much snow.

So in our opinion, mid-June to September is the best time to visit the Dolomites if you want to do some great hiking.

October and November is a beautiful time to visit the Dolomites for photography when the leaves start turning a golden colour and crowds are reducing. The weather is cool but several of the hiking trails are still open.

HOW TO GET TO THE DOLOMITES

There are no international airports in the Dolomites and only 2 train stations. The best way to get to the Dolomites is to fly to a nearby airport and hire a car.

BY PLANE

The Dolomites is serviced by several international airports, the most convenient are Venice, Innsbruck, and Verona.

We recommend starting in Innsbruck if possible. If you have the time, it’s a fantastic base for a few days at the start of your Dolomites trip.

Read more in our guide to the best things to do in Innsbruck for ideas on how to start your Dolomites trip.

Here are the estimated driving times to Cortina d’Ampezzo:

• Canova di Treviso (Italy) – 136 kilometres (1 hour 45 minutes)
• Venice Marco Polo (Italy) – 148 kilometres (1 hour 50 minutes)
• Innsbruck (Austria) – 164 kilometres (2 hours 10 minutes)
• Verona (Italy) – 265 kilometres (2 hours 55 minutes)

BY TRAIN

The only convenient train station in the Dolomites is at Bolzano. Trenitalia (Italian), ÕBB (Austrian) and DB (German) train services arrive in Bolzano. Check train times on thetrainline.com.

GETTING AROUND THE DOLOMITES

DRIVING IN THE DOLOMITES

The most convenient way to get around the Dolomites is to hire a car and drive yourself. The roads are good, and although there are lots of windy roads, there is nothing particularly difficult about driving in the Dolomites.

HIRING A CAR

All roads in the Dolomites are paved, so a 4×4 is not required. You might enjoy being slightly higher off the ground, but that’s all you’ll need a 4×4 for.

Keep in mind that if you hire a car in Innsbruck, you will need to cross the Austria-Italy border to get to the Dolomites.

Most car hire companies allow this with no extra fee, however, if you break down or have an accident, you will need to liaise between the Austrian office and the Italian roadside services.

We got a flat tyre at Tre Cime, and it took several calls to get roadside assistance to turn up. In the end, we waited around 3 hours.

We still think Innsbruck is one of the best options for arriving at the Dolomites, but it’s something to keep in mind.

MOUNTAIN PASSES

To get to some of the best viewpoints in the Dolomites, you’ll probably find yourself driving over a mountain pass.

This is where you drive up and over a mountain via a series of hairpin turns.

You’ll see signs saying “Tornante” with a number. This indicates the number of hairpins remaining before reaching the top of the pass.

The mountain passes are not difficult to drive, however, you will be sharing the road with lots of other cars and motorcycles so it can be slow going.

Mark and I had no trouble driving in the Dolomites, and it’s by far the best way to get around.

INTERNATIONAL DRIVING PERMIT

For British license holders with a plastic card and photo, an International Driving Permit is not required to drive in Italy, even with Brexit. However, if you have a paper license only, then a 1968 International Driving Permit is required.

Travellers from other countries should check with their local governments. 

An International Driving Permit is validation that you have a driving license and does not replace your actual license so make sure you bring both.

AUTOSTRADE

Some of the major roads in the Dolomites operate on a toll system called the Autostrade. When you pull up to the toll gates, you’ll receive a paper ticket to keep with you until you arrive at the next toll gate.

When you hand over your ticket, the attendant will calculate the charge for you.

Prices for the Autostrade are based on distance. For a journey from Innsbruck to Cortina (180 kilometres), the fee was €7.50.   

DISTANCES

The distances may appear short, but driving in the Dolomites can take a long time given the twisty roads, so you have plenty of time to get to your destination.

SIGNAGE

Road signs are in both Italian and German.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN THE DOLOMITES

Some public bus services can be useful for getting to and from the start of a hike. This is a good option to avoid parking in busy locations, such as Tre Cime, which has time restrictions on when you can park. (See more information in the tips section below).

Other than that, getting around via public transport is not very practical in the Dolomites.

The exception is Val Gardena, which has a good bus network connecting the towns of Ortisei (St Ulrich), Santa Cristina (St Cristina), and Selva di Val Gardena (Wolkenstein in Gröden).

• Find the Val Gardena bus timetables on valgardena.it
• For buses around Cortina, use dolomitibus.it

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO VISIT THE DOLOMITES?

Compared to many other destinations in the Alps, the Dolomites are relatively cost-effective.

You could expect to pay somewhere between €90 – €110 per night for a decent budget hotel.

A main course at an inexpensive restaurant is around €15 and a beer is usually €5. Prices will be slightly higher in the rifugios, which are often quite remote.

A small/medium hire car will be around €40 per day including fuel.

CABLE CAR COSTS

A significant expense in the Dolomites is the cable cars. As you can see from the below table, none of them are very cheap.

In our opinion, however, they are a necessary expense. Many of the walks in the Dolomites start from the top of a cable car station.

Some of them, Seceda, for instance, are breathtaking experiences that shouldn’t be missed.

There are family and season tickets that are designed to save money, however, for this itinerary, didn’t find any discount passes they were worth purchasing.

MAIN CABLE CAR OPENING TIMES

CABLE CAR	TIME	WHEN	RETURN COST
Sass Pordoi	9 AM – 5 PM	Late May to mid-October	€27
Lagazuoi	9 AM – 4:40 PM	Late May to mid-October	€25
Seceda	8:30 AM – 5:30 PM	mid-May to early-November	€39.50
Alpe di Suisi	8 AM – 6 PM	Late May to early November	€24
Grosté	8:30 AM – 12:30 PM & 2 PM – 5 PM	Mid-June to late September	€23

TIPS FOR VISITING THE DOLOMITES

If you are planning your first trip to the Dolomites, here are a few things we wish we knew on our first visit.

SOME DESTINATIONS HAVE ARRIVAL RESTRICTIONS

As the dolomites are getting increasingly popular, some busier places have restricted arrival times. The important ones to know about are below.

• Alpe di Siusi – You can only drive to Alpe di Siusi before 9 am or after 5 pm. Hotels have overnight permits for guests.
• Tre Cime – The parking at Rifugio Auronzo for Tre Cime is only open from 8 am to 6 pm. As times change, check here before setting off.
• Lago di Braies – Parking spaces for Lago di Braies must be booked in advance if you are travelling between 10 July and 10 December. Parking is only permitted before 9:30 am.
• Prato Piazza – You can only drive to Prato Piazza before 10 am unless you are staying at the hotel at the top. More information is on our Lago di Braies guide.

ITALIAN & GERMAN IS USED

Italian and German are used throughout the Dolomites, and most places have an Italian and German name. We’ve used both where possible in our guides.

CHECK THE CABLE CAR TIMES IN ADVANCE

The cable cars in the Dolomites do not run all year. Most have a summer and a winter season, and each cable car has its own timetable that can change from year to year. Below are some of the most popular cable cars.

PACK FOR WARM & COLD CONDITIONS

Even on a beautiful sunny day when the conditions are perfect for hiking, the weather can quickly change in the mountains. The temperature decreases by around 6.5°C for every 1,000 metres you climb.

When we hiked to Lago di Sorapis, it was about 5 degrees colder at the top than it was at the bottom.

Make sure you pack layers so you can rug-up or rug-down as the weather changes.

BOOK HOTELS WELL IN ADVANCE

The Dolomites are becoming more and more popular. These days, you need to book your accommodation well in advance, especially in popular centres like Cortina or Ortisei.

Even in less busy areas, like the Brenta Dolomites, there are fewer hotels so they can fill up fast.

We recommend booking your accommodation at around 6 months out to increase your chances of finding exactly what you want.

MOST TRAILS OPEN IN JUNE

While it’s possible to hike in May, most of the trails don’t open until June.

HOW LONG DO YOU NEED IN THE DOLOMITES?

To get a good taste of what the Dolomites has to offer, we’d suggest a two-centre stay for around 1 week.

We spent 3 days around Val Gardena and 3 days in Cortina d’Ampezzo which felt like just the right amount of time to do some great hikes and see the best of the lakes and mountains.

OUR SUGGESTED ITINERARY

On our last visit, we spent 7 days in the Dolomites which involved 4 days hiking with rest days in-between. This allowed us to recover between the hikes and see some of the other attractions in the area.

All the details are on our Dolomites road trip itinerary, which we have summarised below:

• Day 1 – Passo Pardoi & The Great Dolomite Road
• Day 2 – Tre Cime di Lavaredo
• Day 3 – Lago di Braies & Val di Funes
• Day 4 – Alpe di Siusi
• Day 5 – Sassolungo
• Day 6 – Trentino
• Day 7 – Brenta Dolomites

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• Plan your trip with our 3-day Rome itinerary.
• Here are the best places to visit in the Dolomites.
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• Read our guide to the Italian Dolomites.