The churches of Val di Funes have become Instagram favourites. But there is more to do in this idyllic slice of the Dolomites. Discover panoramic vistas, rocky trails and a relaxed corner of Italy.

By: Paul Healy | Last Updated: | Comments & Questions

The quaint churches of Val di Funes nestled in rolling green meadows under the jagged spires of the Puez-Odle massif are a remarkable scene.

Yet despite the beautiful setting, it’s a surprisingly quiet valley in the Dolomites.

Towering peaks are visible from almost everywhere and charming alpine farms line the lower parts of the valley.

Val di Funes is one of the unmissable places to visit in the Dolomites. This guide includes what to do, the best hikes, plus practical tips for your visit.

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SAN GIOVANNI CHURCH, RANUI

VAL DI FUNES MAP

Our map contains all the points of interest in Val di Funes including the best photo spots for the churches, parking locations and hiking routes.

How to use our maps // Click on the top right corner to open in the Google Maps app. Click on the star to save to your Google account.  

WHAT TO DO IN VAL DI FUNES

1. SAN GIOVANNI CHURCH, RANUI

The church made famous on Instagram in Val di Funes is San Giovanni Church in the small village of Ranui.

This white stone church commissioned in 1744, contains an onion dome with a star recognising the martyrdom of John. Various artworks inside the church tell the story of his life.

It’s an attractive building, but the highlight is the location. Nestled in a sweeping green meadow, the church is backed by the soaring spires of Odle-Geisler, part of the Puez-Odle massif.

WHERE TO TAKE PHOTOS

There are two great spots to take photos near the church.

One is by the fence on the edge of the field, the second is a one-minute walk up a nearby road.

You can find both locations marked on the map above.

There is free parking for around 12 cars about 2 minutes’ walk from the church. We have also marked this location on the map.

Mark and I walked the Panoramaweg and Sunnseitenweg hike – see details below – which also has wonderful views of San Giovani.

2. SANTA MADDALENA CHURCH (ST MAGDALENA)

The other famous location in Val di Funes is the Santa Maddalena Church and village.

The church is constructed from a more traditional light grey stone with a pointed spire.

The Santa Maddalena church and the Obermesnerhof Farmstead make a beautiful photographic ensemble.

As the village sits further back from the jagged Odle-Geisler peaks, it offers a magnificent contrast of rural countryside beneath an inhospitable mountain landscape.

This setting is one of our favourites in the Italian Alps.

WHERE TO TAKE PHOTOS

Away from the villages, the views of the church nestled in the valley with the entire massif visible in the background are breathtaking.

The best photos of the Santa Maddalena are taken from the rolling hills that sit just northwest of it.

You can find the location marked on the map above.

Santa Maddelena is only a 15-minute walk away from San Giovanni Church, and it’s a great place to start the excellent Panoramaweg and Sunnseitenweg trails. (See below).

3. PANORAMAWEG AND SUNNSEITENWEG HIKING TRAILS

Although recently growing in popularity, this part of the Dolomites has remained relatively untouched by tourism.

The rolling green meadows covered with flowers in spring are dotted with rural farmsteads where you can watch local farmers tending to rows of perfectly cut hay. It’s one of the best destinations for hiking in the Alps.   

Two excellent hiking trails provide a unique way to see the valley. Panoramaweg and Sunnseitenweg meander up and down the rolling hills, capturing the best of the idyllic rural landscape.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HIKE

Start in Santa Maddalena and follow the roads up to Santa Maddalena church.

From the church take the path north-west which rises up the rolling hills.

Follow the signs for the Panoramaweg as it contours the valley and drops to meet another path. Turn right heading into San Pietro.

From San Pietro, return to Santa Maddelena via the lower Sunnseitenweg.

If you want to shorten the walk, you can skip the section that goes to San Pietro (see map above).

Alternatively, you can return from San Pietro on the 330 bus which runs roughly hourly up and down the Funes Valley.

HIKE DETAILS (CLICK TO OPEN)
  • Start Santa Maddalena
  • Distance7-kilometre round trip
  • Time2 hours, 30 minutes
  • Elevation+/- 250 metres
  • DifficultyEasy

4. THE ADOLF MUNKEL TRAIL

If you have 24 hours to spend in Val di Funes, you’ll have enough time to hike up to the base of the soaring spires of Odle-Geisler.

Appearing like a jagged saw above the beautiful Val di Funes, this rocky wonderland is a slightly strenuous, but excellent, day hike in the Dolomites.

Starting from the San Giovanni Church in Ranui, the Aldof Munkel Trail (Sentiero delle Odle) will take you far away from the tourist route into a rocky wonderland with high alpine farms and spectacular scenery.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HIKE

Start in Ranui and take path 28 following a road which becomes a track as it ascends steeply through a forest.

After just over an hour the trees thin and the peaks appear. Turn right on path 35 (this is the Adolf Munkel Weg) to Rifugio Malga Brogles where a carpet of alpine flowers frames the rocky views of the Puez-Odle massif. The rifugio still houses a working dairy farm and is a beautiful spot to sit and admire the views.

From the rifugio, backtrack the way you came, but ignore path 28, and stay on path 35 as it traverses directly under the peaks.

It’s a rocky, part scree path that’s so close to the peaks you’ll be straining your neck to see them.

Turn left on path 36 following signs down to Malga Glatsch and then Rifugio Zanes.

At Zanes turn left on path 33, back along the valley floor to Ranui.

HIKE DETAILS (CLICK TO OPEN)
  • Start Ranui
  • Distance16.5-kilometre round trip
  • Time5 hours
  • Elevation+/- 1000 metres
  • Difficult Medium

5. OTHER THINGS TO DO IN IN VAL DI FUNES

If you have more than 24 hours to spend in Val di Funes, then you’ll have time to appreciate the area in more detail.

Here are a few more things to do:

MINERAL MUSEUM IN TEIS

As a result of volcanic activity more than 290 million years ago, Val di Funes is blessed with a huge amount of alpine minerals, many of which are on display at the Teis Mineral Museum. It’s open from April to November.

THE PUEZ-ODLE NATURE PARK

The nature park is a protected habitat for animals including eagles, chamois, deer and marmots as well as many rare plants that grow in the rocky soil. Information about hiking paths, mountain biking and other recreational activities can be obtained from the Nature Park Visitor Centre.

HIGH ROPES ADVENTURE PARK

If swinging through the treetops – Tarzan style – in the shadow of the Puez-Odle peaks sounds like fun, you’d be right. The High Ropes Adventure Park has a number of different courses with suspension bridges, balance beams and zip wires.

E-BIKE EXCURSIONS

Takes some of the steepest bike tracks in the area with minimal effort and zero emissions by hiring an e-bike. Mountain bike tours operate every Tuesday from May to October and are a great way to see a lot of stunning scenery in a short space of time.

Plosebike have tours and courses that tackle some of the mountain trails in the area for all levels of difficulty and fitness.

WHERE TO STAY IN VAL DI FUNES

There are a number of options for staying in Val di Funes.

Santa Maddalena is a small village in the most picturesque part of the valley. This is where to stay if you want to get away from it all and have those magnificent views from your balcony. This is where Mark and I stayed.

San Pietro does not have the same great views, but it’s the largest village in the valley with more facilities. A bus running up and down the valley connects the villages making it easy to get between them, even if you don’t have a car.

OUR PICK

BUDGET

FALLERHOF

Finding budget accommodation in Val di Funes is not easy. But these tiny bedrooms or apartments allow you to stay right in the centre of Santa Maddalena for a very reasonable price with very friendly hosts.


APARTMENTS

LIVING PUEZ

These apartments are ideally located a very short walk to the cafes and restaurants of San Pietro. Each has a balcony with fine mountain views, but you need to be staying for at least a few days in order to book.


VIEWS

PROIHOF

This hotel has simple wooden furnished Alpine decorated rooms, but the real draw is the location. Set amidst rolling fields in the most picturesque part of the valley, the views are sensational. 2 night minimum.


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PUEZ-ODLE NATURE PARK

HOW LONG TO SPEND IN VAL DI FUNES?

You could spend anywhere from a few hours to a few days exploring Val di Funes, depending on your interests.

HALF DAY

A half-day in Val di Funes will allow you to hike the Panoramaweg and Sunnseitenweg trail for a unique vantage point of the valley.

24 HOURS

If you have 24 hours to spend in Val di Funes, you would be able to soak up the idyllic valley setting with its Instagram-able churches, and still have time to explore the high alpine dramatic landscapes. The Adolf Munkel hike up to the base of the Puez-Odle massif is a slog, but a very rewarding one.

2 DAYS

Two days in Val di Funes would allow you to see all the main sights, plus enjoy some of the other outdoor activities in the valley.

If you have a bit more time, the beautiful Valle Di Cembra has a similar photogenic vibe and is well worth a visit.

WHEN TO VISIT THE VAL DI FUNES

The Val Di Funes looks best in late June / early July when flowers cover the meadows, the hay is being cut and the snow has melted from the paths under the massif.

Most of the hiking paths will be open, but the upper crevasses will still contain some unmelted snow, giving the area a lovely alpine feel.

The conditions are also good in late July and August but the Dolomites can be busy during the summer school holiday months.

September or early October is better for crowds, the air will start to get that autumnal crispness and the foliage will be moving from colourful flowers to muted golden tones.

HOW TO GET TO VAL DI FUNES

Val di Funes is located in the Dolomites, a large mountain range in northeastern Italy. As a popular location for both skiing and summer hiking, there are plenty of good options for getting to the Val di Funes. 

BY AIR

The closest airports to Val di Funes are Innsbruck which is 93 kilometres away and Verona which is 191 kilometres away.

BY TRAIN & BUS

To reach Val di Funes by public transport take the train to Bressanone/Brixen and change onto the 340 bus which runs up Val di Funes terminating at Ranui. The 340 departs hourly (between about 8:30 and 19:30) and stops regularly.

The 339 bus also shuttles up and down the valley, giving you access to an attractive pass and the hiking base of Zannes. Unfortunately, there are only 3 or 4 services a day. You can find the timetables here.

There are no regular direct buses connecting Val di Funes with other valleys in the Dolomites. To travel to Val Gardena, just one valley to the south, you need to change buses at Bressanone/Brixen.

HIKERS’ BUS

If you want to travel between Val di Funes and Val Gardena on Wednesday you are in luck.

During the hiking season, the hikers’ bus departs Ranui at 9:00, stops at various points along Val di Funes, before heading into Val Gardena and terminating in Ortisei at 10:10.

Currently, it only runs one way and it costs €12. You need to make a reservation (+39 0472 840 180).

san giovanni church val di funes italy
SAN GIOVANNI CHURCH, RANUI

BY CAR

The Dolomites is accessed via several international airports, each of which have car rental desks. Val di Funes is a 1-hour, 30-minute drive from Innsbruck, a 2-hour, 10-minute drive from Verona, and a 3-hour, 20-minute drive from Venice.

There are a number of free car parks in the Val di Funes, with the larger one at Ranui costing €4 a day.

More information about driving in the area can be found in our guide to visiting the Dolomites for the first time.

The Dolomites is a large area which is best explored in your own car. Our 1-week Dolomites Road Trip is a good starting point for putting your itinerary together.

HUMAN POWER

Another great way to get to Val di Funes is to walk. If you are staying in Val Gardena, take the Resciesa funicular from Ortisei (St. Ulrich) up to the Rescieca Plateau.

Then follow path 35 (Adolf Munkel Trail) as it passes over the summit of the ridge and descends to Rifugio Malga Brogles.

From here you can either drop directly into Santa Maddalena (3 hours) or take a more circuitous, but dramatic route under the Odle-Geisler peaks.

MORE READING FOR YOUR DOLOMITES TRIP

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Paul Healy

Paul is an experienced travel writer with a collection of prestigious industry awards, including the title of Blogger of the Year at both the British Guild of Travel Writers and the TravMedia Awards.

His expertise lies in crafting engaging content, focusing on city breaks, comprehensive country-wide guides, and useful travel tips.

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