The Val Fiscalina hike is often overlooked for more famous hikes in the area, but in our opinion, that is a mistake. Here is all you need to know about the Val Fiscalina hike in the Dolomites.
By: Mark Barnes | Last Updated: | Jump to Comments
The most famous hike in the Sesto Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo Loop, is becoming increasingly crowded.
Parking needs to be booked online in advance, making it difficult to choose a day with good weather. The rifugios are now geared toward serving huge crowds, losing most of their charm.
If you want to see some breathtaking scenery and really enjoy this beautiful part of Italy, the Val Fiscalina Hike is a much better option.
It’s longer than Tre Cime (allow 8 hours total), there is more ascent and descent (1,175m), but the rewards are greater.
There are four excellent rifugios, far fewer crowds, and if anything, the views are better.
The trail combines gentle grassy meadows, rocky ascents, sweeping terraces beneath giant crags, and narrow scree slopes.
We hiked this route in August during peak season, and although there were quite a few people about, most of this hike was very quiet.
The route includes a stop at Dreizinnenhütte, which is on the Tre Cime loop, and we instantly noticed the increase in crowds. But once we left the rifugio and continued on the Val Fiscalina hike, they just as quickly disappeared.
Basically, we can’t recommend this hike enough. If you’d also like to do Tre Cime, read our guide to hiking the Tre Cime Loop.
VAL FISCALINA HIKE OVERVIEW
- Start / Finish: Hotel Dolomitenhof
- Distance: 17.8 km / 12 miles
- Duration: 6 hours 30 minutes
- Elevation gain: 1,175m
- Difficulty: Medium to Difficult
The Val Fiscalina circuit is 12 miles long (17.8 kilometres) and takes approximately 6 hours and 30 minutes to walk. However, there are four fantastic rifugios en route, so allow 8 hours for an excellent day out.
The views as you make your way around the circuit are breathtaking.
First up is the seemingly endless rocky wall of Croda Rossa and Cima Undici. Next are the soaring pinnacles of Croda dei Toni.
From the high pass, views sweep over Cadini di Misurina and the Marmarole behind.
Finally, the Tre Cime rise imperiously above Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte in German).
The paths are all well-signed, and there is nothing technically difficult on the route. All the paths can be walked with no scrambling required. In fact, I don’t think we had to use our hands once.
We have rated the hike as medium to difficult only due to its length and the 1,200 metres of ascent and descent. Any hiker with reasonable fitness should be able to complete the walk.
MAP
Below is a map of the Val Fiscalina hike (marked in red).
We have also marked the four rifugios that you will pass on the hike:
- Rifugio Fondavalle (Talschlusshütte)
- Rifugio Zsigmondy Comici (Zsigmondy-Hütte)
- Rifugio Pian di Cengia (Büllelejochhütte)
- Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte)
The map also shows the car parks and bus stops (in blue) needed to reach the trailhead. Instructions for how to get there are below the map.
USING OUR MAPS. Click on the top right corner to open in the Google Maps app. Click on the star to save to your Google account.
GETTING TO THE TRAILHEAD
This Val Fiscalina and Dreizinnenhütte Circuit starts at Hotel Dolomitenhof. The hotel is in the Fiscalina Valley (Fischleintal) just south of the village of Moso (Moos). It can be accessed by either bus or car.
BY BUS
To reach the trailhead by bus, take either bus 446 or 440 to the Pian di Val Fiscalina (Fischleintalboden) bus stop, which is right outside Hotel Dolomitenhof.
The 446 bus operates a route between Dobbiaco (Toblach), San Candido (Innichen), Sesto (Sexten), and Moso (Moos), then stops at Pian di Val Fiscalina (Fischleintalboden) before continuing to Passo Monte Croce (Kreuzbergpass).
The 440 bus, also known as the Val Fiscalina Shuttle, runs a shorter route between Sesto, Moso, Pian di Val Fiscalina, and Passo Monte Croce.
Both operate from early June to mid-October from 8 AM to 5:30 PM and run every half hour, resulting in a bus about every 15 minutes. Tickets can be purchased on the bus, but please bring cash, as card payments are not always accepted.
BY CAR
The Val Fiscalina car park (Fischleinbodenhütte Parkplatz) is next to Hotel Dolomitenhof, but access is restricted between 9 AM and 4 PM from mid-June to early October.
If you wish to bring your car during peak season, you must arrive at the car park before 8:45 AM.
We arrived at about 8:10 AM during the peak hiking season in August, and there were still a few spots left, but they were going quickly.
Upon entry, you are issued a parking ticket, which you pay at the machine when you leave. Parking costs €5 for the first hour, €2 for each additional hour, and €15 for the entire day.
You can leave the car park and return via the restricted road at any time.
If you want to arrive during the restricted hours, you can park in Croda Rossa (Rotwand) car park in Moso (Moos) and either:
- Take the 440 or 446 bus (5 minutes) to Pian di Val Fiscalina bus stop (next to Hotel Dolomitenhof)
- Hike up the valley (30 minutes). Please note this will add 1 hour total to an already long walk.
HIKING INSTRUCTIONS
HOTEL DOLOMITENHOF TO RIFUGIO ZSIGMONDY COMICI (2 hours 10 minutes)
From Hotel Dolomitenhof (1450m), follow Path 102 south, signed towards Dreizinnenhütte. The trail begins as a wide gravel track skirting the edge of a green meadow.
To your left is Croda Rossa and Cima Undici forming an impregnable wall of rock. In front of you is Cima Una with the triangular peak of Croda dei Toni rising above its left shoulder.
To your right is the Tre Scarperi group, which we also explored on the Torre dei Scarperi hike.
It’s an easy and gentle 20-minute stroll along the valley floor to Rifugio Fondavalle (Talschlusshütte). A couple of minutes after the rifugio, you come to a junction of paths.
Turn left and follow Path 103 southward toward Rifugio Zsigmondy Comici (Zsigmondy-Hütte). Here begins a long and fairly relentless ascent.
The trail heads up through the trees along a rocky path, zigzagging as it steepens. After about 30 minutes, the path becomes more gradual, as it contours beautifully under Cima Una and up the Fiscalina Valley.
We loved this section of the walk as we ascended the narrow valley with rock all around and the majestic pinnacles of Croda Dei Toni in front of us.
There is one final push, where zigzags make the stiff ascent more tolerable, before you reach Rifugio Zsigmondy Comici (2224m). Dramatically set next to scree slopes and soaring peaks, it was the perfect place to grab a coffee while we took in the views.
RIFUGIO ZSIGMONDY COMICI TO RIFUGIO LOCATELLI (2 hours)
From the rifugio, take Path 101 heading westward toward Rifugio Pian di Cengia and Dreizinnenhütte. It twists and turns through a mix of rock, grassland, and old WWI ruins as it gradually ascends.
We saw a couple of marmots along this section, so keep your eyes peeled.
About 45 minutes from the rifugio, you reach Passo Fiscalino (2519m). From here, views open up to the south and west with magnificent views over the Cadini di Misurina massif and Marmarole.
Ignore the treacherous-looking via ferrata on your left and keep right along a ledge to Rifugio Pian di Cengia (Büllelejochhütte), nestled in a crack in the rock.
This is where we had lunch, and it was one of the highlights of our last Dolomites trip. We both had bratwurst with potatoes, followed by apple strudel, and it was fantastic. The food and service were excellent, and the views from this wild and rugged setting were breathtaking.
Continue following Path 101 westward past a Christian cross and a bench to reach Forcella Pian di Cengia (2522m).
Make sure you keep right on Path 101 as it heads steeply down a scree-covered slope. A carefully constructed zigzag path makes this otherwise tricky descent straightforward.
The path then traverses under the flanks of Monte Paterno, before slowly ascending again to Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte). This rifugio is magnificently set under the three peaks of Tre Cime; however, it’s on the very popular loop, so it was absolutely packed with long queues for the bathrooms and food.
We suggest you try to skip using the rifugio during peak season and take in the surrounding views.
RIFUGIO LOCATELLI TO HOTEL DOLOMITENHOF (2 hours 20 minutes)
From Rifugio Locatelli, take Path 102 north-eastward under the flanks of the Tre Scarperi massif back to Rifugio Fondavalle and Hotel Dolomitenhof.
It begins by passing a couple of lakes and then a meadow often filled with cows. The trail then becomes rocky as it descends relatively steeply into Val Del Sasso Vecchio (Altensteinertal). Shortly, it is met by a stream, with the final stretch shaded by trees and dwarf pine.
It’s a long and tiring descent. We stopped at Rifugio Fondavalle for a quick beer and then strode out the final section back to Hotel Dolomitenhof and the car.
RIFUGIOS ON ROUTE
One of the great things about the Dolomites, and particularly this hike, is having lunch and breaks at the rifugios. There are four excellent rifugios along this route, each offering something different.
Rifugio Zsigmondy Comici (Zsigmondy-Hütte) — This rifugio is reached just over two hours into the walk. At the end of a long ascent, it is the perfect spot for a rest. We grabbed a bench at one of the tables outside, ordered a cappuccino and stared at the magnificent soaring pinnacles of Croda dei Toni.
Rifugio Pian di Cengia (Büllelejochhütte) — This rifugio sits near the top of the pass. Surrounded by rock, it feels wild and rugged with magnificent views. It makes the perfect stop for lunch (as the next rifugio is packed with tourists).
Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte) — This famous and stunningly set rifugio sits under the three peaks of Tre Cime (Drei Zinnen). It has glorious views, but also very large crowds. We recommend getting lunch at Rifugio Pian di Cengia and using your time at Rifugio Locatelli to explore the chapel, grotto and surrounding views.
Rifugio Fondavalle (Talschlusshütte) — This charming rifugio is located near both the start and end of the walk. Set deep within the valley and surrounded by trees, it provides a shady haven after a tiring day in the mountains. There is a play area for children and plenty of seating (both inside and outside) for food and drinks. There isn’t much of a view, but it’s a great place to have a beer at the end of the hike.
BEST TIME TO HIKE
The best time to hike the Val Fiscalina Circuit is from mid-July to late September. The snow should have melted from the high ground, and the weather is at its warmest.
We hiked in mid-August and, despite it being peak season, we saw very few people on most of the walk. As mentioned above, you’ll notice a sharp increase in hikers at Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte).
If you are driving, try to arrive before 8:45 AM to secure a spot.
WHAT TO TAKE ON THE HIKE
Hiking Boots: The full circuit is reasonably long and paths are uneven in many places, so we suggest wearing proper hiking boots (we use something similar to these).
Hiking Poles: We’re recent converts to hiking poles, and for this walk, they make the long ascents and descents much easier. We use the trusty Leki sticks.
Waterproofs: Weather conditions on the walk can change dramatically, and rain is common in the afternoon. Make sure you take a waterproof like this one.
Sunblock/Hat: Since much of the walk is not in the shade, bring sunblock and a hat on hot days.
Snacks: With 4 rifugios on the route, there’s no need to bring lunch, but you might want to take some snacks.
Water: Make sure you have plenty of water. We used one of these hydration packs, which makes it much easier to stay hydrated on the trail.
Maps: The main route is well-marked, but it’s also a good idea to have an online map with you.
Drones: Drones are permitted on some of the paths (although we didn’t actually get ours out of our bag!), but they are not permitted at Dreizinnenhütte.
MORE READING FOR YOUR DOLOMITES TRIP
- See the best of the Italian Dolomites on our one-week Road Trip Itinerary
- Demystify the area with our guide to where to stay in the Dolomites.
- Hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo with our comprehensive guide.
- One of our favourite hikes with fewer visitors is Lago di Sorapis.
- Discover other incredible places in the Italian Alps.
- Pick from our favourite hikes in the Dolomites.
- Val di Funes (Villnöss) is an Instagram favourite, but there’s plenty of other great things to do.
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