Where To Stay In The Picos De Europa – Best Areas And Hotels

The Picos de Europa is a mountain range in Northern Spain, but with no central location that offers easy access to all the sights, deciding where to base yourself takes a bit of research. So, if you’re looking for help deciding where to stay in the Picos de Europa, you’ve come to the right place.

The Picos de Europa are an under-visited mountain range in northern Spain.

Dramatic rocky landscapes meet charming rural villages tucked into lush green meadows. Blessed with hiking trails and good facilities, it’s a wonderful part of Spain for both hikers and sightseers.

Unfortunately there is no central location from which to see all the sights.

Instead, the highlights are tucked into four different areas, dotted around the edges of the Picos National Park. Each of the four areas offers a different experience with different types of accommodation.

Paul and I had a great time exploring the Picos recently, but the trip required some logistical planning to run smoothly.

So, we’ve put this guide together to help you decide where to stay. Armed with the information below and our overall guide to the Picos, you will be able to design your perfect trip.

LAYOUT OF THE PICOS

The Picos de Europa are the most dramatic section of the Cantabrian mountains in northern Spain.

Straddling the Asturias, Cantabria and León regions, these dramatic rugged mountains consist of three major massifs separated by two deep valleys cut by the Rio Cares and Rio Duje.

Neither of these valleys can be negotiated by a 2WD car so the best way to see the Picos is to complete a circuit of the three massifs and pop in from the outer edges to see the sights.

Public transport is irregular and slow, so we highly recommend renting your own car. It saves an enormous amount of time and gives you more options in the evenings.

This is exactly what we did. We hired a car and did a circular loop of the Picos over 1 week.

MAP – WHERE TO STAY IN THE PICOS

There are four excellent areas to stay when exploring the Picos.

• Northern Picos – Poncebos and Las Arenas in the Northern Picos are great if you’re looking for more adventurous hiking and dramatic scenery. This area is marked in grey on the map above.
• Southeastern Picos – Potes and Camaleño Valley in the Southeastern section is the best all-round section for sightseeing with some lovely medieval towns and easy walks. This section is marked in purple on the map.
• Southwestern Picos – Caín and Valdeón Valley have more rugged and rural scenery, which is great if you’re looking to get away from the crowds. This is the orange section on the map.
• Northwestern Picos – Cangas de Onís and Covadonga in the northwest have attractive lakes and an interesting historical sanctuary. This is the blue section of the map below.

The map also includes all the best things to do in the Picos so you can stay near the sights that interest you most.

If you want to do a complete tour of the region, follow our 7-day Picos itinerary. This requires spending 2 nights in Poncebos, 2 nights near Cangas de Onis, and 3 nights in Potes or the Camaleño Valley.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE NORTHERN PICOS?

The Northern Picos is home to the most dramatic scenery.

From here, you can get the best views of the Naranjo de Bulnes, a monolithic rocky mountaintop that has become the region’s iconic image.

You can also ride the funicular to the pretty village of Bulnes and take drives that end at scenic rural villages high up in the mountains.

The Northern Picos is the access point for the Cares Gorge that cuts between the western and central massifs.

From here you can also do the Ruta del Cares trail, possibly our favourite hike in Spain.

There are two good options for staying in the northern Picos – Poncebos & Las Arenas de Cabrales.  

PONCEBOS

Poncebos is a tiny collection of hotels and guesthouses wedged into the bottom of a tight valley.

The funicular to Bulnes and the Cares Trail leave from here so it’s very convenient for hiking and sightseeing.

If you plan on hiking the Ruta del Cares, we highly recommend staying two nights in Poncebos to avoid the difficulty of parking at the trailhead on the day of your walk.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // ARCEA MIRADOR DE CABRALES

This is where Paul and I stayed. It’s an excellent value 2-star hotel with good-sized rooms and breakfast included. They do dinner each night, which is handy given the remote location.

The hotel is a 10-minute walk to the beginning of the Cares Trail so it’s popular with hikers.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // CASA MARU

This is a beautiful house in a remote location in the hills above Poncebos with stunning views over the Picos. 

Excellent (but steep) hikes leave from the front door and close to the beginning of the Cares Trail and the funicular to Bulnes.

As a word of caution, you need to drive up a steep single-lane road with several tight hairpins to get there. 

LAS ARENAS DE CABRALES

Poncebos does not have many facilities and only limited accommodation options.

For a wider choice of hotels, bars, shops and restaurants, you could stay in Las Arenas de Cabrales.

It’s only a ten-minute drive to Poncebos. In high season (June to mid-October), when parking in Poncebos can be extremely tricky, an hourly shuttle bus (8 pm to 8:30 pm – with a gap in the afternoon) runs to the Bulnes funicular and trailhead.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL VILLA DE CABRALES

This comfortable, modern hotel is in a renovated country home that retains much of its charm. It’s located in the centre of Las Arenas and offers easy parking across the street. Good bars and restaurants are nearby.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL PICOS DE EUROPA

The rooms at Hotel Picos de Europa are modern and spacious, and the outdoor terrace and pool are the perfect place to unwind after a day in the mountains.

It’s a convenient base with easy parking outside and all the facilities of Las Arenas on your doorstep.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE SOUTHEASTERN PICOS?

The Southeastern Picos is the most beautiful and relaxing place to stay when exploring the Picos de Europa.

The area stretching westward from the capital, Potes, to the Camaleño Valley is a lovely part of the Picos and a great place to base yourself.

Staying here puts you close to the Fuente De cable car, which provides access to a 1,823-metre-high viewing platform and wonderful hiking.    

We also loved the charming village of Mogrovejo, often classified as one of the most beautiful in Spain.

There are two good options for staying in the southeastern Picos – the town of Potes or the Camaleño Valley.

POTES

We had heard mixed reviews about Potes, but Paul and I really liked it.

The medieval centre is a mix of tightly packed narrow lanes and intriguing architecture. We found plenty of good restaurants and tapas bars, many of which take advantage of the riverside location.

There are plenty of facilities in town. The only downside is that parking can be tricky, so try to get a hotel with its own parking lot.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL VALDECORO

This convenient hotel, recently revamped, is just a 5-minute walk from the centre of Potes. The rooms are spacious and modern. A covered parking lot is available for bikes and cars.

The location is perfect, within an easy walk to the bars and restaurants of Potes.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // VILLA ELENA

Set within an orchard, this beautifully decorated house is a popular B&B with excellent home-cooked breakfasts. There is private parking, which is very handy, and it’s only a 10-minute walk into the centre of Potes.

CAMALEÑO VALLEY

If you want a more rustic and relaxed stay, we suggest one of the excellent-value guesthouses tucked into the Camaleño Valley.

It’s easier to park, and if you pick one close to Potes, you can always pop in for the evening. We did that, and loved it.

Staying in a posada (guesthouse) in the Camaleño Valley is one of the highlights of the Picos de Europa.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // POSADA SAN PELAYO

Paul and I stayed at this beautiful, friendly, family-run home surrounded by gardens and a small pool.

The guest spaces are lovely, and you can have breakfast in the garden, overlooking the dramatic mountain tops. Highly recommended.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // POSADA LAS ESPIDILLAS

This restored 17^th-century farmhouse is located in the small mountain village of Camaleño.

Rustic rooms have balconies, and the hosts provide delicious homemade breakfasts. This is great if you’re looking for a very quiet stay in a great location on the slopes of the Picos.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // PARADOR FUENTE DÉ

This large modern structure at the bottom of the Fuente Dé cable car is not particularly cute or atmospheric, but its large windows have great views of the mountains.

It’s also convenient for hikers or climbers heading into the high mountains.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE SOUTHWESTERN PICOS?

The Southwestern Picos is by far the most remote and rural area to stay in the Picos.

It is based around Posada de Valdeón, a sleepy village at the foot of giant mountains. Getting here is exciting, with twisty roads that head over high passes and deep rocky valleys.

From Posada de Valdeón, a single-lane road heads through the upper end of the Cares Vally to Caín –where you start the Ruta del Cares Trail.

To be honest, there are few other highlights in the area, and most visitors will just stop for lunch as they circumnavigate the Picos.

However, if you like remote hikes on less visited trails and want to experience the less touristy side of Spain, this is probably the area of the Picos you want.  

There are numerous villages dotted around the Valdeón Valley. They’re all tiny, but each offers an authentic slice of rural Spain.

POSADA DE VALDEÓN

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL RURAL PICOS DE EUROPA

This hotel offers rooms or bungalows in a tranquil setting on the outskirts of Posada de Valdeón. It is a good base for walking the Ruta del Cares Trail, and Caín is only ten minutes away by car. 

OSEJA DE SAJAMBRE

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL LA CUNA DEL SELLA

This well-rated hotel is in Oseja, a sleepy little village in the mountains. Nearby, there are many walking trails and a couple of bars and restaurants to choose from in the evenings.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE NORTHWESTERN PICOS?

The northwestern region contains one of the premier attractions of the Picos de Europa – the Lagos da Covadonga. The lakes are at the end of a long winding road that climbs high up into the western massif.

There are wonderful viewpoints across the lakes and excellent mountain hikes.

Unfortunately, the few days we were there, the weather was appalling. So, you can’t see much in the photos below. However, the Covadonga Sanctuary is an intriguing stop even on a wet day.

Please be aware that in high season (June to mid-October and some weekends), the road between Covadonga Sanctuary and the Covadonga Lakes is closed to private vehicles after 7.30 am.

During these times, you’ll need to get the shuttle bus that starts in Cangas de Onis, stops along the road to Covadonga Sanctuary, and climbs to the lakes.

If you get up early and drive through the entrance gate to the lakes at Covadonga Sanctuary before 7.30 am, you can take your own vehicle and return anytime.

CANGAS DE ONIS TO COVADONGA

Cangas de Onis is the main gateway to the area. It’s not a particularly pretty town, but it is a convenient base with plenty of facilities.

Several guesthouses are located on the road to the Covadonga Sanctuary, which offers a more rural stay outside the town centre.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL EL REPELAO

This lovely old building has simple rooms in an excellent location beside the Covadonga Sanctuary. There is also very easy access to the road up to the lakes.

The downside is that in peak season, the area can be swamped by tourists.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL SANTA CRUZ

This is a modern and comfortable small hotel in the centre of Cangas de Onis. All the town’s facilities are on your doorstep, and you can pick up rooms for pretty good value.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL ECOS DEL SELLA

On the road between Cangas de Onis and the lakes, this modern, stylish 3-star hotel is lovingly designed. They have an eco-friendly focus, plenty of parking and good value rooms.

HOTEL SUGGESTION // HOTEL MIRADOR DE LA CEPADA

This is where Paul and I stayed.

It’s set on a hill above Cangas de Onis and overlooks the Sella River. They have spacious, high-quality modern rooms in a beautiful hotel. It can feel business-like, but the rooms are a cut above and the bar and restaurant have great views over the mountains.

The only downside is it’s a bit of a walk (or short drive) into town.

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