What To Do In The Picos de Europa - Complete Guide With Map

The Picos de Europa is a mountain range in Northern Spain with dramatic scenery, medieval villages and superb local produce. This guide covers all you need to know, including what to do, how to get around and where to stay in this underrated corner of Spain.

Although only 12 miles across, the Picos de Europa packs a punch with dramatic scenery, medieval villages, excellent hiking, and great local produce.

We were recently in the Picos for a 1-week road trip and loved it. 

The scenery is stunning, with giant slabs of rock rising above tiny villages tucked into lush green valleys.

We spent most of our time hiking in the Picos, but there’s plenty to do if you are more interested in general sightseeing.

Cable cars and funiculars get you high in the hills, where you can appreciate the amazing scenery, visit medieval towns and enjoy the local Spanish lifestyle.  

The other detail we loved about the Picos is the cost. Bars and restaurants are a fraction of the price you’ll pay elsewhere in Spain, and guesthouses (good ones) can be snapped up in the vicinity of around €60 to €70 per night.

In this guide we will provide an overview of the national park, why and when you should visit, and the best things to do.

WHY VISIT THE PICOS?

We think you should visit the Picos de Europa for five reasons.

1. SCENERY

The Picos de Europa consists almost entirely of limestone rock carved by glaciers to form a dramatic area of alpine karst.

The result is a series of spiky summits, lunar landscapes, deeply carved canyons, leafy forests and verdant slopes. It’s a magical place that reminds us of the Italian Dolomites.

2. MEDIEVAL TOWNS & VILLAGES

There are tiny villages in the Picos where life has barely changed in hundreds of years. To stroll the cobbled streets passing old stone and timber houses is to step back in time.

3. LOCAL FOOD

The locals in northern Spain are rightly proud of their produce. Their artisan blue cheeses are famous worldwide, and their much-loved cider and chorizo combination kept us going on many a long day.

Some of our best times were spent perched at the bar and tucking into tapas while sharing a story with the locals.

4. HIKING

The Picos is an excellent destination if you love hiking like we do. Trails combine the verdant foothills with the rocky desolation of the high mountains. The scenery is excellent and there are hikes for all levels of experience. The region rivals many of the best hiking destinations in the Alps.

5. VALUE

Finally, the Picos are great value for money. We stayed in great quality guest houses for around €60 to €70 per night. The food and drink is generally a fraction of the price you’ll pay in other mountain destinations across Europe.  

GETTING TO THE PICOS

There are three convenient international airports to get to the Picos de Europa.

• Santander Airport – 1-hour 20-minute drive to Las Arenas de Cabrales.
• Asturias Airport– 1 hour 40-minute drive to Las Arenas de Cabrales.
• Bilbao Airport – 2-hour 15-minute drive to Las Arenas de Cabrales.

Although Bilbao was the furthest, Paul and I decided to fly here and spend a day visiting the Bilbao Guggenheim. We’ve been twice now, and both the architecture of the building and the modern art inside make it worth visiting.

Bilbao also has an excellent food scene. The Pintxos, small bites usually served on toothpicks, is one of our favourite ways to eat.

There are plenty of great tapas bars in the old town square, and Bilbao is a great starting point for a road trip in Northern Spain – a guide we’re working on right now. 

WHAT ARE THE PICOS DE EUROPA

The Picos de Europa are the most dramatic section of the Cantabrian mountains in northern Spain.

Straddling the Asturias, Cantabria and León regions, the Picos consist of three major massifs separated by two deep valleys.

The Western Massif (Picos de Cornión) and Central Massif (Urrieles) are separated by the Rio Cares (River Cares). This river has carved a steep sided gorge between 2,000-metre-high peaks.

The gorge cannot be negotiated in a car but provides the setting for one of the best walks in Europe, (and something we recommend you don’t skip), the Ruta del Cares hiking trail. More on this later.

The Central Massif and Eastern Massif (Ándara) are separated by the Rio Duje. Alongside this river runs the Ruta de la Reconquista (GR-202) hiking path and a stony jeep track (marked in black on the map below) which can only be negotiated in a 4×4.

GETTING AROUND THE PICOS DE EUROPA

Travelling across the centre of the Picos de Europa National Park is not easy. The three massifs are high and rocky and the two valleys that separate them cannot be driven in a 2WD car.

So the best way to explore the Picos is to complete a circuit of the three massifs and pop in from the outer edges to see the sights.

Public transport is irregular and slow, so we highly recommend renting your own car. It saves an enormous amount of time and gives you more options in the evenings.

This is exactly what we did. We hired a car and did a circular loop of the Picos over 1 week.

You can find the route and details on our Picos Road Trip Itinerary.

MAIN AREAS TO VISIT IN THE PICOS DE EUROPA

There are four main sections to the Picos we suggest you visit. They are:

• Northern Picos – Poncebos and Las Arenas in the Northern Picos are great if you’re looking for more adventurous hiking and dramatic scenery. This area is marked in grey on the map below.

• Southeastern Picos – Potes and Camaleño Valley in the Southeastern section is the best all-round section for sightseeing with some lovely medieval towns and easy walks. This section is marked in purple on the map.

• Southwestern Picos – Caín and Valdeón Valley have more rugged and rural scenery, which is great if you’re looking to get away from the crowds. This is the orange section on the map.

• Northwestern Picos – Cangas de Onís and Covadonga in the northwest have attractive lakes and an interesting historical sanctuary. This is the blue section of the map below.

The red markers are the best things to do – which we cover below.

MAP – PICOS DE EUROPA

The blue route on the map below is our proposed Picos driving itinerary.

WHAT TO DO IN PICOS DE EUROPA

NORTHERN PICOS

HIKE THE RUTA DEL CARES

The best thing we did in the Picos was definitely the Ruta del Cares hike.

It begins in Poncebos and follows the Cares Gorge to the village of Caín.

This remarkable canyon weaves between 2,000-metre-high peaks. In some places, the walls are only a few metres apart.

The path is around 100 metres above the river and only a metre or two wide at its narrowest section.

The scenery is absolutely stunning, and although the path is narrow, it’s wide enough to comfortably pass oncoming hikers. I doubt anyone would have much of an issue with it, even if you’re not good with heights.

It takes about 3 to 4 hours each way, but it’s not a circular hike, so you could do as much as you want and then return.

Getting there – The Ruta del Cares hike begins in Poncebos, a 20-minute drive from Las Arenas de Cabrales. Arrive early to get a park or get the bus, which departs hourly from 8 am daily between June and October 13.

CAPTURE THE VIEWS OF NARANJO DE BULNES

The most distinctive mountain in the Picos de Europa is Naranjo de Bulnes, otherwise known as Picu Urriellu. At an altitude of 2,529 metres, its limestone peak appears to soar above the surrounding rock.

The western face consists of a 550-metre-high vertical wall that is very popular with mountaineers, which is not us, unfortunately.

Instead, we took in the views from various excellent viewpoints.

Pozo De La Oración Viewpoint – In Poo de Cabrales just west of Cabrales, this mirador offers a wonderful sweeping view of the entire area.

Bulnes Viewpoint – This viewpoint is a ten-minute walk from the village of Bulnes and has excellent views of Naranjo de Bulnes peeking between the valley walls.

Camareńa Viewpoint – After driving a series of steep hairpins above Poncebos (with only limited parking at the end), we arrived in the village of Camareńa. From here, it’s a short walk to the Picu Urriellu viewpoint, which can be seen poking above the valley walls. We suggest doing this drive early or late in the day to avoid cars coming the other way.

RIDE THE BULNES FUNICULAR

Bulnes is a little village high up in the mountains. It’s a lovely spot and the gateway to some adventurous hikes in the Central Massif of the Picos.

It used to take a couple of hours to hike here, but a funicular now connects Poncebos and Bulnes, making it much more accessible for everyone.   

The delightfully peaceful village has no cars and just a couple of pretty cafes and restaurants set along the river.

We followed the signed trail from the village to the Bulnes viewpoint mentioned above. It took about 10 minutes, and the views were excellent.

HOW TO GET TO BULNES?

The Bulnes funicular leaves from Poncebos. It runs every 30 minutes and takes just 7 minutes to reach Bulnes.

• High Season Opening Hours – 10 am to 8 pm
• Low Season Opening Hours – 10 am to 6 pm (with a break from 12:30 pm to 2 pm for lunch)

You can’t book tickets in advance so you may have to queue for a while, although they often run extra funiculars when busy.

Parking—There is very little parking at the bottom, so we stayed in one of the hotels in Poncebos. This allowed us to leave the car at the hotel and walk to the funicular station. If you are not staying in Poncebos in summer, try arriving just before it opens. Otherwise, a bus from Las Arenas de Cabrales runs hourly from June to mid-October.

EXPLORE THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGE OF SOTRES

Sotres is the highest village in the Picos de Europa. Perched on a ledge overlooking the Duje Valley, it’s a small traditional village with wonderful views.

Sotres is famous for producing Cabrales Cheese, a type of blue cheese which is aged for two to five months in limestone caves in the mountains.

There is a tiny shop in the village that sells a local variety, although their opening hours are a little hard to decipher.

In addition to the cheese shop, there’s a village shop, a café and a bakery, but that’s about it.  

The real highlight of going to Sotres for us was the drive from Poncebos. The sinuous paved road that heads along the Duje Valley has wonderful views.

Getting there – Sotres is a 20-minute drive from Poncebos on the CA-1.

SOUTHEASTERN PICOS

POTES OLD TOWN

Potes is a medieval town and the most interesting one to visit in the Picos de Europa National Park.

Spanning the River Deva, the southern side is a maze of narrow alleyways lined with wooden and stone houses. The northern side has medieval sights, including the 15^th-century Torre del Infantado and San Vicente church.

The two sides are connected by grand stone bridges and a lovely town square.

Paul and I ate at La Barrica de Potes which we highly recommend. The food was excellent, as were the views from the terrace.

Potes makes a great base for exploring the Camaleño and Liébana Valleys.

Beware, parking can be a challenge in peak season, and you may need to drive around a bit.

SANTO TORIBIO MONASTERY

The monastery of Santo Toribio, just outside Potes, has been a place of pilgrimage for over a millennium.

It contains the Lignum Crucis, which believers say is the left arm of the cross on which Christ was crucified.

It was brought from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem to the monastery by Saint Turibius of Astorga, and many believe it to be the largest surviving piece of the cross.

The relic has made the monastery one of the most important holy sites in Europe.

It’s kept in a gilded silver reliquary at the back of the church, but it is difficult to see properly.

There’s a nice walk up to the nearby Ermita de San Miguel which has views over Potes and Camaleño Valley.

Getting there – Santo Toribio is a 5-minute drive from Potes.

ASCEND THE FUENTE DÉ CABLE CAR

The western end of the Camaleño Valley ends at a mighty wall of rock which is a popular destination for climbers.

Fortunately, there is a much easier route.

The Fuente Dé cable car rises to the upper station, El Cable, at 1,850 meters. The journey takes just 4 minutes, but your impression of the Picos is completely transformed. The verdant foothills are left behind and replaced by wild and rugged summits.

Numerous hiking trails head into the rocky wilderness from the top cable car station.  

Paul and I did the Puertos de Áliva hike (PR PNPE 24) which was fantastic.

The path gently rises from the Fuente Dé cable car for around 15 minutes. After this, it’s all downhill.

On the way down, we stopped at Rifugio Áliva, which has some basic snacks (sandwiches) and a great terrace to take in the views.

From here, the path heads through a mix of forest and grasslands before finally arriving back at the lower cable car station (remember to only purchase a single cable car ticket).

It’s a great walk but can be a bit muddy, so walking boots are required.

The hike is just over 15 kilometres, and it took us about 5 hours. The total descent is almost 1,000m.

Another option is the popular Horcados Rojas hike. This walk stays high up in the rocky wilderness of the Picos before descending back to Fuente Dé using the cable car.

Getting There – There is a large car park next to Fuente Dé bottom station, but it fills up quickly on weekends and in summer. We also had quite a long wait for the cable car. If the weather forecast is good and you know your plans, we highly recommend you book cable car tickets online at least a day in advance and arrive early to get a park.

Opening Hours – The Fuente Dé cable car runs from 8 am to 7 pm June to September, October to May, 10 am to 6 pm on weekdays, and 9 am to 6 pm at weekends.

AMBLE MEDIEVAL MOGROVEJO

The tiny village of Mogrovejo, in the Camaleño Valley, was built between the 16^th and 18^th centuries.

It has been listed as a site of historic and cultural significance thanks to its interesting monuments, including a medieval tower, a 17^th-century church and the unusual houses built with an exposed upper floor.

Clustered tightly together on the slopes, the town has breathtaking views of the mountains that surround it and strolling its streets is like a journey back in time.

Getting there – Mogrovejo is a 15-minute drive from Potes or Fuente Dé. Free parking is available at the end of the village.

ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES IN THE PICOS

If you head north out of Potes, the road disappears into the Desfiladero of La Hermida. This is a deep canyon, cut by the River Deva, with high rocky walls that are used for adventure activities.

Via Ferrata – The  La Hermida Via Ferrata is great for thrill seekers with different course options based on your level of comfort.

Canyoning – Jump and slide down waterfalls and ravines while canyoning in the nearby Rio Navedo.

White-water rafting – Between March to May, you can try one of three different rafting trips on the Deva, Cares or Sella Rivers.

SOUTHWESTERN PICOS

DRIVE THE PASSES TO POSADA DE VALDEÓN

The southwestern area of the Picos Europa National Park is more rural and remote. It can only be reached via high passes with twisty roads and wonderful scenery.

Here are some of the passes we drove on our road trip:

SAN GLORIO PASS

The main national highway, N62,1 between Potes and Valdeón, crosses the San Glorio Pass. On a clear day, the spiky peaks of the Picos can be seen, but unfortunately, we did not have a clear day.

The summit is Puerto San Gloria, at 1,610 metres. At the top, we took the gravel track to Collado de Llesba, where there is a bear statue and more cool views.

In our small 2WD car, we found this drive easy, and it’s worth going up for the views.

PUERTO DE PANDETRAVE

From Portilla de la Reina, the LE-2703 winds through tiny villages to Valdeón. It’s a single lane road in places and not in the best condition, but we thought it was a fun drive, not too difficult, and the scenery is more wild and remote.

We stopped at all the regular viewpoints; the best was Puerto de Pandetrave.

DESFILADERO DE SELLA

Between Cangas de Onis and Valdeón, the paved road dives into a ravine cut by the River Sella. This was our favourite section of the drive, with narrow canyon walls squeezing in towards the road. You can see it in the drone shots we captured below.

NORTHWESTERN PICOS

HAVE LUNCH IN CAÍN

Caín is a small village in the heart of the Picos. It is situated on a section of the Cares River where its deeply cut gorge widens enough for houses to be built. 

We got to Caín by hiking the Ruta del Cares from Poncebos. But this hike takes about 3 hours each way, so it may not be suitable for everyone.

The other option is to drive from Valdeón, which we did also. The road is good, although it has a section with a single lane, which can get busy in peak times.

If you visit Caín on a nice day, the views on the road from Valdeón as it cuts through the gorge are excellent.

We stopped at Mirador del Tombo on the way, which is a great photo spot.

Caín is a 20-minute drive from Valdeón.

COVADONGA SANCTUARY

The northwestern section of the Picos is centred around the less-than-charming town of Cangas de Onis. The highlight of the area is the Covadonga Sanctuary and Lakes.

In 718 CE Covadonga was the sight of a battle between Pelayo, a nobleman and founder of Asturias, and the Moors. The fight is considered the first strike in the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula from the Muslims.

A cave was constructed a few years after the battle to commemorate the victory.

A chapel was built inside the cave to house a statue of the Virgin Mary, believed to have aided the Christian victory.

The chapel and statue succumbed to a fire in 1777, but they were rebuilt, and the cave remains a place of pilgrimage for Christians.

Today the cave is known as the Covadonga Sanctuary. The complex has a statue of Pelayo and the beautiful San Fernando Basilica.

Getting there – It’s a 15-minute drive from Cangas de Onis. Limited parking is available next to the basilica. There is a regular bus from Cangas de Onis in high season which stops at the Covadonga Sanctuary before continuing to the Covadonga Lakes.

HIKE AROUND THE COVADONGA LAKES

Covadonga Lakes are located at 1,000 metres in altitude in the Northwestern Picos.  

On a clear day, the views are supposed to be amazing. Unfortunately, we had very poor visibility, which you can see in the images below.

Nonetheless, we still had a nice time exploring some of the hiking trails around the lakes.   

There are several short strolls along the shoreline, but we did the 2-hour Ruta de Los Lagos hiking trail, which circumnavigates the two biggest lakes, Lago de Enol and Lago de la Ercina.

Apparently, the area can be packed on warm summer days, but we didn’t experience this on our grey drizzly day.

GETTING TO THE COVADONGA LAKES

The road from Covadonga Sanctuary to Covadonga Lakes is paved but narrow, steep, and busy, even on our relatively quiet day there.

In peak season, the road is closed to private vehicles, and access is only allowed on the shuttle bus.

The bus starts in Cangas de Onis and makes a stop at El Repelao (next to Covadonga Sanctuary) before ending at Covadonga Lakes.

Peak season is 8.00 am to 7 pm June to September and most weekends in April, May and October. It is €9 return for adults from Cangas de Onis.

If you want to take your own car during peak season, you must go through the gate to the lakes (next to Covadonga Sanctuary) before 7:30 am. You can make the return journey at any time.

OTHER THINGS TO DO

STAY IN A LOCAL POSADA

One of the best things about visiting the Picos de Europa National Park is the great value of the accommodation.

Beautiful and homely posadas (Spanish Inns) line the edges of the valley in scenic surroundings.  

One of the best areas for a great Posada is Camaleño Valley. Lying in the rain shadow of the mountains, it is dryer and warmer than the rest of the park. We highly recommend a stay of at least two nights here.

Posada San Pelayo – This is where Paul and I stayed. It’s a beautiful, family-run home surrounded by charming gardens and a little pool. The lounge is cosy and you can have breakfast in the garden under the gaze of the dramatic mountains.

Posada Las Espidillas – This restored 17^th-century rural farmhouse is perched in the small mountain village of Camaleño. Rustic rooms come with balconies and homemade breakfasts by friendly hosts. The location on the slopes of the Picos is wonderful.

WHERE TO STAY?

The best area to stay for dramatic scenery and hiking is the northern Picos. It’s also convenient to get to the Bulnes cable car.

For a more rural and relaxed stay, we’d recommend one of the great value guesthouses in the Camaleño Valley.

We have all the details and hotel recommendations in our guide to staying in the Picos de Europa.

WHEN TO GO?

Peak season in the Picos is July and August, when the weather is fine, and the summits are free of snow.

However, locals flock to the hills for their summer holidays and the areas around Poncebos and Covadonga can be packed.

JUNE TO SEPTEMBER

In our opinion, the best time to visit the Picos is the shoulder seasons of June and September. There are fewer visitors over this time and the days are often clear.  

It’s also the best time for hiking. The trails are in excellent condition, with only patches of snow, and the temperatures are generally comfortable.  

OCTOBER & MAY

You can also take your chances in October (when autumnal colours come alive) and May (when wildflowers start to bloom).

The downside is that this is low season, so opening hours are reduced. You might also find some snow on the higher ground.

However, the crowds are significantly reduced, it’s easy to get around, and the posadas have more vacancies at better prices.

WINTER

During winter, the peaks will be covered in snow, and temperatures plummet. It’s the time for snowshoe treks, ski touring and warming winter fires.

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