Driving the F-Roads of Iceland gets you off the beaten track into amazing rugged scenery. But f-roads come in all shapes and sizes and navigating them presents challenges. Here's what they are like to drive.
Perched on the mid-Atlantic ridge, where the earth’s crust is thin, Iceland is a volcanic wonderland.
Gurgling blue and brown rivers wind their way around green and red mountains. Bubbling mud pots and yellow sulphurous boils emit gases from the scarred earth. Geysers erupt, waterfalls crash and black lava swirls across the land, as mighty glaciers and towering volcanos peer down.
Some of this beauty can be seen from the Ring Road that loops around Iceland, but many more great sights lie in the desolate highlands that stretch across the interior of the country. These highlands are connected by isolated gravel tracks known as the F-roads in Iceland.
To use these roads, you will need a 4X4 rental and a sense of adventure. But driving the F-roads in Iceland is more than just exploring this unique landscape, it’s doing it in a way that makes you feel like you’ve conquered foreign lands. It’s an experience we highly recommend.
We were inexperienced 4×4 drivers who hired a 4X4 rental in Iceland and set off to explore the highlands on our 10-day trip. Driving these roads can be tricky. Sometimes we were nervous (heading into our first river), most of the time we were uncomfortable (after 2 hours bumping over lava fields) and often we were weary (these roads required sharp concentration).
But if you are semi-adventurous, enjoy leaving the crowds behind and own a pair of hiking boots, then hiring a 4×4 rental in Iceland and heading out on the F-roads may be just what you’re looking for.
Here is some information to help you decide.
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WHAT ARE THE F-ROADS IN ICELAND?
The F-roads in Iceland are mountain roads; unpaved gravel tracks that are not regularly maintained. Prefixed with an F, such as F210, they have large potholes, many ruts or large boulders on their surface. They come in all shapes and sizes. Some are pretty good gravel tracks where you can drive along at 80kph, whereas others will have you fording rivers, rising up across steep rocky inclines and gliding through sand.
The F-roads are dotted around Iceland but most take you into the desolate central highlands. A barren and remote place with very few facilities. You will find almost no shops, no petrol stations and no hotels. What you will find is plenty of rock, snow, lava, ice and some great adventure opportunities.
WHY DRIVE ON THE F-ROADS IN ICELAND?
There are a number of excellent reason to drive on the F-roads in Iceland.
Firstly, as most tourists circle the ring road, it enables you to get off the beaten track, leave the crowds behind and head into some truly remote scenery. You often have the country to yourself, except perhaps for a few sheep. The views from the car windows are excellent as glaciers glint in the sun, lava fields cross the road and volcanos tower into the sky. The highlands are a place to take a deep breath and savour the natural beauty of Iceland.
Secondly, some amazing destinations can only be reached via the F-roads in Iceland. Landmannalaugar is home to multi-coloured mountains, magenta craters, crystal blue lakes and some magnificent hiking. Askja is a barren and desolate volcanic area with a large crater, two lakes and black lava fields swirling around it. Kerlingarfjöll is a beautiful mountain range, wedged between two glaciers, with gurgling rivers, red rock and steaming vents. Þórsmörk is a valley of icy rivers rushing through rocky moraines with great hiking up to superb viewpoints. But these are just three of the finest places to visit in the Iceland Highlands.
Finally, driving the F-roads in Iceland is an adventure in itself. The perfect place to hone your 4×4 skills, navigate unkempt roads and survey rivers for acceptable crossing opportunities. Tackle different types of driving conditions and bask in the glory of accomplishing a great travel milestone.
F-ROAD / LANDMANNALAUGAR HIKE
WHAT VEHICLES ARE ALLOWED ON THE F-ROADS IN ICELAND?
The potholes, boulders and river crossings on mountain roads require a vehicle with good ground clearance. Car rental companies will not insure normal passenger cars on these mountain roads and you could face a hefty fee if your uninsured car is damaged.
So 4×4 rental is required to use the F roads in Iceland. Three other mountain roads, not prefixed with an F, also require a 4X4 rental in Iceland: Kaldidalur valley (road 550), Kjölur (road 35) and Jökulhálsleið (road 570).
To explore the highlands via the F roads in Iceland you will need to come in summer. Most mountain roads are closed in winter, and only open as the snow melts, usually in June, staying open till late September or October. All opening times are available from the Iceland travel website. But once they are open these roads are a joy to drive. You just need a bit of planning and to be careful.
HOW DIFFICULT ARE THE F-ROADS IN ICELAND TO DRIVE?
Driving the mountain roads requires concentration. We had rocks to negotiate, rivers to cross, and sand to slide through. At times the visibility was low and we were peering out of our windscreen trying to make out the small indent in the rock and gravel that was our road.
Different roads have different challenges. Some are easy gravel tracks whereas others rise steeply up mountains and over rocky boulders. Some cross small shallow streams whereas others traverse much deeper and faster-flowing rivers.
Conditions on Iceland’s F road change. What is a stream in the morning can be a river by the evening. So, the challenges of driving an F road depend on the difficulty of the road, the size of the vehicle you have rented, the weather conditions, and your confidence and experience as a driver.
INSPIRATION / TOP EXPERIENCES IN ICELAND
There are some easy mountain roads, little more than undulating rocky tracks, with no river crossings, that any inexperienced 4X4 driver in any 4X4 rental in Iceland can drive, such as Landmannalaugar from the north on the F208 and Kerlingarfjöll on the 35 Kjölur Road.
Other mountain roads are relatively flat but require river crossings, where higher 4X4 clearance is an advantage, such as the F910 to Askja, the F225 west of Landmannalaugar and the F26 Sprengisandur crossing the centre of Iceland.
Then there are some mountain roads that are very steep or have treacherous rivers, such as the F88 to Askja, F249 to Þórsmörk and F578 to Arnarvatnsvegur. These roads are often not suitable for an economy or intermediate 4×4’s and may require a larger or specialised 4×4.
So, you have to decide which roads you want to take and what sized 4X4 rental you might need.
F-ROADS / DRIVING TO ASKJA CALDERA
WHAT 4X4 VEHICLE DID WE HIRE IN ICELAND AND HOW DID WE DO?
Being mildly adventurous individuals, yet not wanting to risk life and limb, we planned on taking the easy mountain roads, assessing the more difficult roads as we went, and avoiding the very challenging ones. We weighed how much we wanted to pay for a 4X4 rental in Iceland against how much we were likely to be able to see. We decided to hire an intermediate 4X4. It was not much more expensive than an economy, but quite a bit cheaper than a large 4×4.
In spite of it being the worst summer weather in Iceland for 100 years; we easily made the return day trips to Kerlingarfjöll and Landmannalaugar. We successfully got across the two rivers on the F910 to Askja.
We had hoped to get to Básar Hut in Þórsmörk via the F249. The F249 is a very difficult road to navigate because of the treacherous Krossa river. But you can park at Básar Hut, just before the river, and walk over a footbridge into Þórsmörk. However, with rain falling, low cloud and more rain forecast we decided to abandon our plans. So, we managed 3 out of 4 of our planned day trips, during a very wet summer.
On all the roads we chose to drive, the steepness of the road was not a problem. The only time we really had to be careful was deciding whether to cross those rivers.
HOW TO CROSS RIVERS ON THE F ROADS IN ICELAND
The reason to be careful when crossing rivers, besides getting wet, is that insurance policies for a 4X4 rental in Iceland do not cover river crossings.
If you damage the vehicle, or get stuck and need help, you will face a hefty bill. But driving across the river is not difficult, the challenge is assessing whether you can cross and choosing the correct route. We were sensible, followed the guidelines below, and in spite of some nerves as we headed in, we easily crossed all the rivers we attempted and were rewarded with a very happy sense of achievement. Here are some helpful tips:
GO EARLY / Before leaving, check the road conditions online and ask locals for advice. As you drive to a tricky crossing, ask vehicles coming the other way for advice.
INSPECT THE RIVER / Do not try to cross a river where the water is higher than three-quarters of the height of your 4X4 rental wheels. Look for posts marking the depth or wade into the river if you are unsure. Cross the river where it is shallower, often where there are ripples and not where it looks calmer and therefore deeper. The best route is often marked by the tyre tracks of other cars. If the route is unclear it is usually better to start upstream and head diagonally downstream across the river. If unsure DO NOT CROSS. Wait for someone else to help you.
GET IN GEAR FIRST / Before entering the river ensure the vehicle is in manual, in a low gear, and drive slowly (5kph) but steadily along the easiest route. Do not change gears mid crossing and don’t hesitate halfway through.
CHECK YOUR RETURN / When returning by the same route do not rush across the river without checking. Rivers can be higher in the afternoon with rain and glacial melt increasing the challenge. Take your time and inspect them again to makes sure you have a good route through.
BACKUP PLAN / Have a backup plan in case you cannot cross the river. Do not put yourself in a position where you have to cross a river that you know might be tricky.
Further useful information is available here.
TIPS BEFORE DRIVING THE F ROADS IN ICELAND
The F-roads take you into a desolate and remote area of Iceland where there are few facilities, so it’s good to be prepared to avoid any unnecessary mishaps. Here are some tips before you head off:
1 / Check the road conditions before you go and ask locals for further advice, including how long the journey will take. While Google maps is good in the highlands, travel times are often not reliable on mountain roads.
2 / Tell someone where you are going or leave your travel plans with safe travel, a travel site where you can register your trip details.
3 / Make sure you know your 4X4 rental car emergency number as well as the Safe Travel Iceland number (112). Sometimes you will not always have phone reception but can send messages, so download the safe travel app and use it to send a text message if you get into trouble.
4 / Leave with a full tank of petrol. There are almost no petrol stations in the highlands and running out is not something you want to worry about.
5 / Take enough food and water with you for the trip. There are very few shops and restaurants in the highlands.
6 / Check weather conditions here and pack warm clothes, waterproofs and hiking boots. The highlands are colder than the coast and the weather can change quickly. When we were there it was often near freezing in the highlands in the middle of summer.
7 / Download the area into offline maps on Google maps before you leave. Your GPS will work even if you don’t have data. It can be invaluable for tracking your drive and any hikes.
8 / For more general tips this list of 12 things to know before visiting Iceland.
We loved our adventure driving the F roads in Iceland. We got off the beaten track, saw some amazing scenery and hiked in unique landscapes. The driving was a mix of adventure, nerves, fun and achievement. If you travel a bit like us, and enjoy the things we do, then we think you’ll love getting a 4X4 rental in Iceland and heading off, on your own, into the wilds.
RENTING A 4x4 VEHICLE IN ICELAND
We rented an intermediate 4X4 which is the minimum sized vehicle required for all the trips we did on our 10-day itinerary.
Theft insurance isn’t required as Iceland is very safe, however, you may want to consider getting sand and ash cover depending on conditions. We highly recommend getting gravel insurance if it is not part of the standard package (but it generally is). You can find all this information and more on our Iceland car rental tips post.
AUTO EUROPE
The best portal we’ve found for booking hire cars is AutoEurope. They have access to cars from all the major companies which are compared on a grid format that clearly displays the prices for different car sizes across each provider. Click below to check prices based on your home location.
AUTO EUROPE
The best portal we’ve found for booking hire cars is AutoEurope. They have access to cars from all the major companies which are compared on a grid format that clearly displays the prices for different car sizes across each provider. Click below to check prices based on your home location.
ORGANISED TOURS
If you want to experience some of the fantastic scenery in highlands but don’t want to drive a 4X4, here are organised tours you can take. Like most things in Iceland, they’re not cheap but we can certainly vouch for the quality of the sights they take you to.
LANDMANNALAUGAR / Book a hiking experience
KERLINGARFJÖLL / Book a day tour
ASKJA CALDERA / Book a super jeep experience
WHERE NEXT?
If you found this article useful, follow us on Instagram for more travel tips and images.
Check out our 6 best reasons to head into Iceland’s highlands and see how we put it all together on our 10 day Iceland itinerary. In it we head into the highlands on a number of day trips. To see what each of those day trips is like read our Ladmannalaugar post, our Askja post and our Kerlingarfjöll post.
Still deciding if Iceland is for you? Read our top experiences in this stunningly beautiful country
Your absolutely beautiful impressions make me really consider to re-visit Iceland for some more impressions. We did “only” the ring route but for that we missed of course many other amazing spots that you can obviously only reach with a 4×4. I like the complete solitude and loneliness of these spots that you have seen and share here. This is a great side of Iceland and an absolutely appealing as well. Also all your helpful tips like how crossing rivers and planning such trips are really helpful – thanks a lot for sharing your impressions, guys!
You are welcome Hendrik. When you set off into the centre in a 4×4 for the first time its a bit nerve-wracking, but we quickly got used to it and soon relaxed. It is another side of Iceland that is really worth seeing, especially as the ring road is getting busier and busier these days. Hope you get the chance to go again.
Oh my word!!! The landscape scenery you’ve shown is incredible! I hadn’t heard of the F-Roads before, but now I think renting a 4×4 and exploring them is something I’ll have to do. despite not having a licence, I think I’ll have to drag a friend along for the ride!
It might have looked even better if there had been a bit more sun! I think handing the driving over is an excellent idea. Paul did all our driving, but every time the road got a bit rougher I became a truly excellent ‘back seat’ driver…….
This sounds like such a fun and adventurous way to explore Iceland! You gave very good tips on watching the gas gauge and letting someone know where you’re going. I’m not sure that my nerves could take multiple days of having to be really mindful although it sounds so tempting to get away from crowds. Saving these tips for our trip!
We found the very first day and first river-crossing a bit nerve-wracking, but you quickly relax and by the end we were making these trips without a care in the world. And as you say, the reward is being alone (or almost alone) in some remarkable scenery.
I travelled in Iceland last year and did not drive the f roads and stuck to the main a road. You do need to be careful and get used to a 4×4 first. Secondly the weather is so unpredictable in Iceland that it takes nerves to drive there. Must say some great tips shared here.
Thanks Amar. Yes conditions do change and you do need to be careful. But I think the other important point, is that not all f-roads are the same. Some are much more straight-forward than others (like Kerlingarfjöll), and these are an excellent place to start when learning how to use a 4×4.
This is such a useful post for anyone wanting to take the same road trip around the F roads. When we were there, we did mainly tours (!) but it suited us just fine. I don’t know how I’d be in a 4×4, so I think I’d just let my partner stay at the wheel! The weather there is really predictable.
I have to say we were nervous the first day, but we quickly got used to it, and some of the f-roads (like Kerlingarfjöll) are barely more difficult than others on the ring road. Although, as you say, since it is in the mountains, you do need to be aware of expected weather conditions.
Was curious to know what are the F Roads. Glad you explained that. While such roads are not new to us, we have never experienced a 4X4 ride on them and Iceland is on our list. Sand and ash insurance and gravel insurance are pretty unique! F roads in Iceland are a visual treat and happy that there are bus services to visit the highlands as well for those who might want to consider options apart from 4X4 ride! We are currently driving around in Himalayas and I would agree that mountain roads requires a lot more concentration and skill.
Wow, driving around the Himalayas is something I would love to do. I walked to the Annapurna Sanctuary about 10 years ago and have been dying to go back ever since. You have reinvigorated my interest. Time to make new plans!
I am so going to rent a 4WD in Iceland because I want to go to the less touristy, offbeat, extremely beautiful places like the ones you mention! Thanks for the info about F-roads and where all they lie in Iceland, the map is really helpful. I am planning a trip in 2019 (summer or autumn) and I am gathering all the info I can before I go. This post has been super helpful in making my decision about renting a 4WD, no two ways about it!
It’s the best way to see the country and it’s great to get off the very popular Ring Rd, so much more to do if you’re willing to be a little adventurous. Glad you found it useful!
Glad to learn about the F-road concept. I agree that mountain roads are treacherous and quite tough to drive on. I have driven across the Himalayas for two years and I know how useful this post is for enthusiasts.
Thanks for your comments. I would love to drive across the Himalayas – sounds like quite an adventure!
First of all hats off to your guts in taking the F Road with a rental 4×4 when you’re not an experienced 4×4 driver!!! This is super adventurous. Though I’d love to try this out, right with a baby in hand, I might take the ring road as well.
Yes with a baby in hand, it might be a little more challenging! Thanks for your comment.
Hey Mark!
Thanks for the great article with all those useful tips! I have an unrelated question though about one of those shots of yours up there!
Where exactly did you take the picture of that landscape with what looks like stairs going up? The picture directly below the interior of the car (with you on the wheel)? I would really appreciate if you can let me know cuz I planned to go Iceland this summer and definitely wanna visit that spot! Thank you! 🙂
Hi Manazir – Thanks for your great comments. That shot is from Kerlingarfjoll. You can’t go to Iceland without visiting Kerlingarfjoll! Here’s all our info about it: https://anywhereweroam.com/hiking-in-kerlingarfjoll/
Thank you Mark and Paul! I just added this destination to my Iceland trip itinerary 🙂 And yes, I also have a general idea about how to get there. I will be doing that trip starting at Akureyri, go down the F35 to this beautiful place and then continue with F35 afterwards towards Reykjavik and end the ring road trip.
I am glad I’ve stumbled upon this article. We’ve been wanting to visit Iceland for ages, but never considered renting a 4×4 until now :).
Hi Julia – we highly recommend getting a 4×4 if you like to get off the beaten track a little. It’s a very rewarding experience in Iceland.