Complete Guide to Visiting Thórsmörk (+ Hikes, Maps & Tips)

Thórsmörk is a remote wilderness area in Iceland’s Highlands. It has some of the best hiking in the country, but getting there is tricky. This guide explains how to visit and has maps and instructions for the best hikes.

Thórsmörk (Þórsmörk Nature Reserve in Icelandic and named after the Norse god Thor) is a remote area in the Iceland Highlands, where three valleys converge under three imposing glaciers, forming a dramatic wilderness of spectacular scenery.

We spent two fantastic days exploring the area, completing several hikes, and were blown away by the views. There are several reasons why we loved visiting Thórsmörk.

Firstly, getting there was an adventure. It involves making your way along the F249. This tricky mountain road has to ford multiple rivers, the largest of which is the Krossá River. It can only be done in specially adapted vehicles or by taking the bus. Either of which is thrilling.

Secondly, we loved Thórsmörk’s scenery. Huge moss-covered mountains are dwarfed by even bigger glaciers, and the fast-flowing rivers cut mesmerising patterns into swathes of black rock.

Thirdly, Thórsmörk has some truly great hikes. Some are easy, lasting only one or two hours and stopping at excellent viewpoints, while others are longer and head along tricky trails to several incredible panoramas. Quite simply, hiking here is one of the best things to do in Iceland.

Thórsmörk is only accessible in the summer months (except for super-jeep tours), and you’ll need to plan ahead to make the most of your experience.

Whether you’re visiting Thórsmörk on a day trip or staying longer, here’s everything you need to know.

WHERE IS THÓRSMÖRK?

Thórsmörk is a remote region at the southern end of Iceland’s Highlands, about 150 kilometres from Reykjavik.

It is wedged between 3 mighty glaciers, Mýrdalsjökull, Tindfjallajökull and Eyjafjallajökull, and surrounded by the Krossá, Þröngá, and Markarfljót Rivers.

Unless you hike into Thórsmörk, the only access is via the F249 Þórsmerkurvegur mountain road. The closest town and fuel station is Hvollsvöllur, but you can also visit Thórsmörk on a day trip from Reykjavík.

LAYOUT OF THÓRSMÖRK

Thórsmörk lies on either side of a dead-end valley and is cut in two by the Krossá River.

It has three different accommodation options. Two of them, Langidalur and Volcano Huts (Husadalur), are north of the Krossá River, and the third, Básar Huts, is south.

The Krossá Rover is notorious for sudden changes in its water level due to the vast glaciers that feed it. The river can be very dangerous to ford, but in summer, a moveable pedestrian walkway (see photo below) allows you to cross between Básar Huts (south of the river) and the other two camps (north of the river).

Most of the best day hikes are north of the river and leave from either Langidalur or Volcano Huts.

THÓRSMÖRK MAP

The map below helps explain the layout of Thórsmörk.

We have added the hikes we recommend in this guide, which are coloured to match the colours of the trail markers in Thórsmörk.

The brown line shows the F249 Þórsmerkurvegur mountain road, including the tricky river crossings.

HOW TO GET TO THÓRSMÖRK

Although only around 30 kilometres from the Ring Road, Thórsmörk is notoriously difficult to get to.

You can choose between four options: drive yourself, take the highland bus, get a private super jeep tour, or hike in.

OPTION 1 – DRIVING TO THÓRSMÖRK

The only road into Thórsmörk is the F249 Þórsmerkurvegur mountain road.

F-roads are unpaved gravel tracks that are not regularly maintained and often include river crossings, driving over sand and very bumpy conditions. By law, only 4×4 vehicles can drive on the F-roads. You can read more about them on our comprehensive guide to driving on the F-roads in Iceland.

The F249 is one of the most challenging mountain roads to drive. It has many fast-flowing rivers to ford, and the depth of the rivers can change quickly.

We strongly advise you NOT to drive to Thórsmörk unless you have a large 4×4 and plenty of experience crossing deep rivers. Even then, only attempt to get to the moveable walkway near Basar Huts, and not to Langidalur Camp or Volcano Huts.

Even if you feel confident enough to make the drive, check your rental car agreement. Many firms specifically state you cannot drive the F249 in their cars.

DRIVING TO BÁSAR HUTS

To drive to Básar Huts campsite (south of the Krossá River) there are two tricky river crossings – over the Steinsholtsá and Hvanná rivers. In normal conditions, you will need a large 4×4 and good experience crossing rivers.

Once at Básar Huts, you can park the car and use the moveable walkway to cross the Krossá River and access the hiking trails on the other side.

DRIVING TO LANGIDALUR OR VOLCANO HUTS

To drive to Langidalur and Volcano Huts (north of the Krossá River), you’ll not only need to cross the Steinsholtsá River (and Hvanná for Langidalur), but you’ll also need to cross the Krossá River.

One of the fastest-flowing and most unpredictable rivers in Iceland, driving across the Krossá should only be undertaken by specially modified 4×4 vehicles and drivers with plenty of experience.

We have hired a medium 4×4 on all our trips to Iceland and have had a great time taking the F-roads to many great places in the country’s Highlands. However, driving to Thórsmörk is not safe in this size car or with our level of experience.

The image below is a medium-sized 4×4 that got stuck in one of the smaller crossings getting to Thórsmörk.

OPTION 2 – HIGHLAND BUS TO THÓRSMÖRK

During the summer months, a modified bus makes the difficult journey down the F249.

Specially designed to cope with the rough territory and fast river crossings, it’s a safe, easy, and reliable way to get to Thórsmörk.

You can take the bus from Reykjavík (4 hours), Hella (2 hours), or Hvollsvöllur (1 hour, 30 minutes) and be dropped off at any of the three campsites: Volcano Huts (Husadulur), Langidalur, and Basar Huts.

Reykjavík Excursions runs two services daily in either direction, costing roughly $80 USD per person return to Hvollsvöllur.

The first bus arrives in Thórsmörk around 11am and the second around 6pm. The buses depart Thórsmörk mid-afternoon and late in the evening.

GETTING BETWEEN THE CAMPSITES

The bus journey between Volcano Huts (Husadalur) and Langidalur Campsite can take 45 minutes to 1 hour because it has to cross the Krossá River twice (see brown route on map below).

Walking between the two campsites only takes 20-30 minutes, so it is often best to get off at whichever is the first stop and start exploring from there.

We have recommendations for which buses to book and how to organise a day trip lower in this post.

OPTION 3 – SUPER JEEP TOUR TO THÓRSMÖRK

Super jeeps are specially modified vehicles with massive wheels that are designed to navigate Iceland’s challenging conditions. It’s not the cheapest way to see Thórsmörk, but it does allow you to get to places that are not possible in a normal vehicle.  

Tours range from 6 to 10 hours, are privately organised and can be tailored to the groups. Most allow for short 1-to-2-hour hikes to some of the most scenic places, while others allow 3 to 4 hours to get up higher.

This super jeep tour takes up to 4 people, helping reduce the cost.

OPTION 4 – HIKE INTO THÓRSMÖRK

Two excellent point-to-point hikes begin or end in Thórsmörk. They are considered two of the best hikes in the world.

Laugavegur Trail // The 3-day Laugavegur Trail from Landmannalaugar covers some of the most unique and spectacular landscapes in Europe. This guided hike tour includes all meals and accommodation, an expert Icelandic guide and luggage transportation – so you only need to carry what you need for the day.

Fimmvörðuháls Hike // This 25.7-kilometre trail, known as the Fimmvörðuháls Hike, runs between Thórsmörk and Skógar. It starts at Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls, and provides fantastic scenery circumnavigating the base of two of Thórsmörk’s glaciers, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökul. The walk takes between 8 and 10 hours and is not to be undertaken lightly.

BEST HIKES IN THÓRSMÖRK 

We had great fun hiking the trails in Thórsmörk. Most trails begin and end at one of the three campsites: Volcano Huts, Langidalur Huts, and Básar Huts.

Here’s a breakdown of the different walks. Each has its own coloured markers to help you find the route.

1. MOUNT VALAHNÚKUR HIKE

The summit of Mount Valahnúkur probably has the finest views in Thórsmörk. Standing on its 465-metre peak, you can look both ways down the Krossá Valley as the river twists and turns through the black gravel.

There are also great views of the deep canyon cut by the Hvanná River. The 360-degree views capture jagged green mountains and on a clear day, all three glaciers. It’s the best way to get an overview of the valley.

It’s a relatively easy hike with a clear path that proceeds straight up Mount Valahnúkur with steps, then down around the other side to Langidalur. If you are short of time and only do one walk, this is the one.

2. THÓRSMÖRK HIGHLIGHTS HIKE

This is a lovely circular hike in the Húsadalur Valley that heads through birch trees and up to the foothills of the Tindfjöll mountains. It then ascends to the Slyppugil Ridge for fine views over Slyppugil Canyon before bending back down through the trees to Langidalur Campsite.

It’s an interesting and varied hike that includes lots of different types of scenery from shady forested paths to impressive mountain vistas. Get an appreciation for the Thórsmörk landscape that feels like an oasis hidden behind the notorious Eyjafjallajökull glacier.     

3. TINDFJÖLL CIRCLE

This is a wonderful, if slightly challenging circuit, around some of the best scenery Thórsmörk has to offer. The route heads east from Langidalur along the north edge of the Krossá valley.

At Slyppugil Hut, the trail turns left and heads up the Slyppugil Valley. It slowly rises before bending right and following the edge of a dramatic and precipitous canyon. The path here is narrow, with steep drops on one side and the towering face of Tindfjöll Mountain on the other.

Exiting the canyon, the path turns right and reaches a glorious viewpoint before winding its way along the edge of a ridge and then dropping (steeply at times) back to the valley floor where you follow the river back to Langidalur.

This is a medium to challenging hike with more ascent and trickier paths than the first two. It helps if you have a head for heights and good grip on your shoes.

4. RJÚPNAFELL HIKE

This is a challenging extension to the Tindfjöll Circle and involves climbing the 964-meter-high peak of Rjúpnafell. The dramatic summit is ascended by tight zigzags up its very steep face. The views are magnificent but it’s a very challenging hike, both physically and mentally.

You need to be very cautious on this hike as the path is very steep and indistinct in places. Do not attempt the ascent if the top is covered in cloud or if it’s windy when you get to the base of the mountain. This is not a hike for anyone with a fear of heights. It’s a good idea to check the conditions at the information desk at Langidalur before you set off.

Add 3 to 4 hours to the Tindfjöll Circle to complete the Rjúpnafell hike.

5. MERKURRANI PLATEAU HIKE

This is an easy hike that not only gains wonderful views over Krossá from the top of the plateau but also descends to the Markarfljót River as it cuts its way through the black riverbed.

The trail leaves from Volcano Huts and follows the white posts towards Mount Valahnúkur, but just before the summit, turn right and follow the green posts across the plateau. Wonderful views over the cliffs are revealed before the path drops down to the river and heads back to Volcano Huts.

6. STAKKHOLTSGJÁ CANYON HIKE

Stakkholtsgjá is a 2-kilometre canyon in Thórsmörk with steep-sided moss-covered walls and a series of streams, culminating in a beautiful waterfall that was used in Game of Thrones.

The walk up the canyon is not particularly challenging, however, there are several streams to cross and you should expect to get wet, at least once.

It takes around 1-hour to walk from Básar Huts to the start of the Stakkholtsgjá canyon hike, then about another 1.5 hours to reach the end of the canyon. If you are coming from Langidalur, you’ll need to cross the moveable walkway over the Krossá River then walk down to the start of the canyon.

The issue is that you will somehow need to get across the Hvanná River. The highland bus may drop you off, otherwise, it might be better to organise a private tour through Midgard Adventure.

7. FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS HIKE

This is one of the great hikes of Iceland. Over the course of 15 miles and 1,400 metres of ascent and descent, the trail passes 25 waterfalls, two glaciers, one volcano, and miles and miles of rock.

Most people start at Skogáfoss on the south coast and hike over the ridge between Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull glaciers, before descending into Thórsmörk.

If trying it all in one go sounds a bit too challenging then you can break it in two and spend the night at Baldvinsskáli hut. It accommodates 16 people, and you’ll need to make a reservation in advance.

8. LAUGAVEGUR HIKE

The most famous multi-day hike in Iceland and chosen as one of the “20 Best Hikes in the World” by National Geographic, the Laugavegur trail crosses the highlands from Landmannalaugar to Thórsmörk.

Over the course of 3 days, the hike delivers some outstanding scenery, including lava fields, colourful rhyolite mountains, canyons, glaciers and active volcanoes.

It can be difficult to coordinate accommodation, so this is a good hike to do as an organised tour. Even if you don’t do this multi-day hike, try to visit Landmannalaugar on your Iceland itinerary.

ACCOMMODATION & FACILITIES IN THÓRSMÖRK

It’s easy enough to visit Thórsmörk on a day trip (see itinerary below). But to explore more, you may want to stay overnight.

There are three places to choose from: Volcano Huts, Langidalur or Basar Huts.

VOLCANO HUTS

Volcano Huts (Húsadalur bus stop) has glamping tents, single or double cabins with shared bathrooms, cottages with bunk beds and dorm rooms. You can also camp on site. The cabins and cottages tend to book up well in advance, and it is often running at capacity over the summer months, so book early.

There is a restaurant on site which serves breakfast from 8am -10am, soup buffet from 11:30am to 3pm and dinner from 6pm to 9pm. Coffee, cakes, muffins and alcohol is available throughout the day.

There’s an information desk with knowledgeable staff who can provide information about the different hiking options.

LANGIDALUR HUT & CAMPSITE

Langidalur Hut and Campsite occupies a beautiful setting on the edge of the Krossá River. There’s a hut that sleeps up to 75 people on two separate floors (bunkhouse style), a dining hall and a BBQ area. There’s space for camping and a toilet and shower block.  

A small shop sells basic snacks (crisps, chocolate bars) as well as tea, coffee, and beer. The helpful staff will be able to provide information on hikes and mountain conditions.

The shop opens from 8am to 7pm and again from 8pm to 10pm. There’s no restaurant or café at Langidalur.

BÁSAR HUTS

Básar has huts accommodating 83 people as well as pitches for your own tent. There are gas stoves, grills and kitchenware as well as a shower and toilet block.

Básar is on the south side of the Krossá River but most of the day hikes start from the north side. So, you’ll need to get across the river on the moveable walkway which takes around 30 minutes. If you intend to do a lot of hiking in Thórsmörk, it’s generally more convenient to stay in Volcano Huts or Langidalur.  

DAY TRIP TO THÓRSMÖRK

If you don’t intend to stay overnight in Thórsmörk, you can still see the best of the area on a day trip.

Make sure you book the first bus of the day. It should arrive in Thórsmörk around 11 a.m. Then, you can choose between booking the mid-afternoon bus, which leaves about 4 p.m., or the evening bus, which leaves about 8 p.m.

This gives you either about 5 or 9 hours to explore.

We suggest getting off at Volcano Huts (Husadalur) and beginning exploring from there. It has the best facilities (including the only restaurant) and the staff can help you plan your day.

Here are some suggestions for what you could fit in.

We highly recommend trying to spend as long as possible to see the area. On our latest visit, we took the morning bus to Husadalur / Volcano Huts (arriving at 10:30am), then hiked up Mount Valahnúkur (11:30am) for the spectacular view.

We ate a packed lunch at Langidalur (12:30pm), then hiked around the Tindfjöll Circle (5:30pm) and made our way back to Volcano Huts (6pm) where we had a couple of pints and some snacks while waiting for the evening bus back home (7:15pm).

WHEN TO GO TO THÓRSMÖRK?

The best time to go to Thórsmörk is from late June to early September when the snow has melted, the roads more accessible and the hiking at its best. The high ridges and glaciers that surround the valley trap the warm air, creating a strange micro-climate that keeps Thórsmörk warmer than most other areas in southern Iceland.

The F249 road to Thórsmörk is closed for most months of the year but usually opens from mid-June to early September.

Huts can be booked from the beginning of May to end of October, with tent pitches available from mid-June to mid-September.

The Highland Bus usually starts in early June and runs daily till mid-September.

Super jeeps can make the journey all year round, although hiking would be a challenge outside of summer.

WHAT TO BRING WITH YOU TO THÓRSMÖRK

• In spite of the micro-climate, the weather in Thórsmörk can change fast. As you will probably be hiking most of the day, bring waterproof jacket and trousers, as well as good quality hiking shoes or boots with a decent grip.
• Warm layers including a woolly hat and gloves are advisable.
• There is food available at Volcano Huts and a small shop at Langidalur but otherwise, it might be better to bring snacks and lunch with you.
• Water bottles can be filled up at all the campsites.
• Make sure you download our map onto your phone to help you get your bearings when you arrive.

WHERE TO GET SUPPLIES?

Apart from the shop at Langidalur and the café at Volcano Huts, there are no other facilities at Thórsmörk.

The best place to stock up is at the N1 fuel station in Hvollsvöllur, where the bus from Reykjavik makes a stop. The shop is well-stocked for snacks and premade sandwiches/pastries, but they don’t stock things like ham, cheese or bread to make your own sandwiches. You can also get a coffee to go.

Opening hours are from 7am to 10pm daily.

MORE REMOTE ICELAND GUIDES

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• Explore the stunning Iceland highlands and get off the tourist trail.
• Enjoy breath-taking scenery on these incredible Landmannalaugar hikes.
• Test yourself on this challenging drive to Askja.
• Take an easy F-road to magical Kerlingarfjöll.
• Explore the Valley of the Gods with our complete guide to Thórsmörk.
• See the under-visited green volcano of Maelifell.
• Make sure you visit the best viewpoints at Stuðlagil Canyon.
• Get off the beaten track and see the sights of the Westfjords.
• We have 6 epic Iceland itineraries to help you plan your trip.
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